The waves were awesome. They were massive (for me anyway - about 5/6ft high) and really powerful. I was having a wicked time - standing up on my board, even starting to turn here and there. I had the biggest grin on my face for about 4hours until I wiped out spectacularly...
I wrenched my shoulder really badly and screamed like hell

So, my shoulder's a mess. It's well and truely f***ed up. Got my arm in a sling so I don't move it. Doped up on painkillers

































I just can't imagine not being able to surf, especially at this time of year coming up to autumn. I'm just soooooooooooooooooooo gutted. Totally
