After a year or more of hiatus from surfing

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After a year or more of hiatus from surfing

Postby BaNZ » Tue Aug 26, 2025 9:01 pm

I'm back :blah: :blah: . Why? Because I broke my finger from onewheel and once you get into early 40's your body start to deteriorate. Last December I blacked out for no reason, it was like tinnitus. Then I started getting chest pains, tight chest, squeeze in the arms for the next few months. Was also getting heart palpitation for no reason even though I'm perfectly healthy. I try and surf once or twice a week and I gotta say, I still got it. First day it was hard to paddle out but I was still catching the waves. My body still remembers everything and I think I'm backed to around 80% of when I used to surf every other day.

I have to say I no longer see the usual faces in my local break, but that might be it's summer so once the crowd dwindles. I'll see the usuals again. Don't know how long I can keep up though as I'm doing it for health reason.
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Re: After a year or more of hiatus from surfing

Postby jaffa1949 » Wed Aug 27, 2025 3:35 am

76 and still doing it……….. not one wheels though, wouldn’t play rugby now! Waves can be softer than pavement :lol:
I've taken up troll hunting just for fun, instead of a rifle I'll just use a pun! 冲浪爷爷
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Re: After a year or more of hiatus from surfing

Postby oldmansurfer » Wed Aug 27, 2025 6:31 pm

Good for you getting back to it. I still hope to be able to put myself in that position at some point
So what is worse.... dying or regretting it for the rest of my life? Obviously I chose not regretting it.
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