What makes a legend, you ask? The one that can surf a board upside down and backwards? Is it the one who’s somehow magically reading the ocean, always in the right spot at the right time? Maybe the one who treats everyone like family, and somehow offers just the right advice to up your surfing skills? Or is it the one who’s seemingly having the most fun?
The Legend is all of those things. On a day I probably wouldn’t have gone out I ended up having one of the best surf days ever.
Mahalos, Waikikikichan. A houi hou.