Back into surfing after 15yrs

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Back into surfing after 15yrs

Postby Naeco78 » Sat Oct 03, 2020 3:33 am

Hey All,
I've been getting really interested in surfing again, after about a 15 year hiatus. I started surfing in the late 80’s (age 10) in New Jersey and by the late 90's I was heavy into it and part of a small group of surfers that would be out in the water year-round. I swore I would never stop surfing back then, but somehow it happened anyway.

But a couple years ago I found out that I needed to have a hip replacement, at 40 years old, and it was kind of a wakeup call that I need to start enjoying things like surfing again, because I was probably taking them for granted in the past. Before that I would just rent a board on vacation, once in a blue moon, and just thought that I would pickup surfing again some other time when it’s more convenient.
After the surgery, I wasn’t really sure if I would be able to surf anymore, but some old friends got me motivated about it again until I finally picked up a used board off Craigslist to give it a try.

I tried a shortboard first, but couldn’t popup in my first few sessions. I almost quit in frustration, but my friends pushed me to swap it out for a funboard. That made a huge difference and the old technique started coming back. Pop-ups are still my biggest challenge with my hip issues, but the stability of the funboard helped me learn new ways to get my feet quicker until I finally made my way back onto a shortboard this summer. Once I’m on my feet, it’s just like old times again. It’s still super difficult on late takeoffs, but luckily the newer boards have a lot more volume than the old potato chips we rode back in the 90’s.

Anyway, just wanted to introduce myself and also say thanks for making this a great forum. It’s already helped me with a bunch of info and I hope that I can do the same for others as well.
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Re: Back into surfing after 15yrs

Postby surf patrol » Tue Oct 06, 2020 5:18 pm

Hi Naeco, welcome to Surfing Waves
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Re: Back into surfing after 15yrs

Postby oldmansurfer » Wed Oct 07, 2020 3:16 am

Awesome story of your comeback. Welcome to the forum
So what is worse.... dying or regretting it for the rest of my life? Obviously I chose not regretting it.
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Re: Back into surfing after 15yrs

Postby jaffa1949 » Wed Oct 07, 2020 6:28 am

Welcome back and to the forum. Enjoy rediscovering the stoke! :lol:
I've taken up troll hunting just for fun, instead of a rifle I'll just use a pun! 冲浪爷爷
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Re: Back into surfing after 15yrs

Postby Naeco78 » Wed Oct 07, 2020 11:29 pm

Thanks guys! It's great being back in the surf.
I'm lovin' all the changes to board designs and rideability instead of just trying to use the same boards the pro's are riding.
The Electric Acid or retro movement looks intriguing
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