Beginner longboarder needs help

[shoreman]

Hi,
I've been watching my kid and nephews surfing past few years and I'm not sure what got me into it, I just wanted to surf myself.
Last year I was borrowing my niece's 8' foamy and tried probably about 10 sessions.
This year since late May/beg of Jun probably did another 10 sessions with the same foamy.
Been trying on 1~3 small mushy days and few times I tried to take out the big foamy on 3~4+ days and either failed to get to the line or chicked out and paddled back in.
I just began to catch waves by myself then go straight. Last weekend I kinda started to make turns.
This is strictly on East coast of US. All beach breaks. Waves comeI am lucky enough to have all my in-laws living on the shore so I can get to the beach almost every weekend.
I'm 46 yro and 155lbs/5'11" just to give you little more info.

Yesterday I had some frustrating experience and wanted to hear from you guys for advice.
Typical 1~2 day started out nicely, was able to catch some and enjoying it.
Before you know I didn't know what changed, according to my folks SE wind picked up, but I kept either being crushed by waves or hung up on the top of the waves.
From the mid to the end of session I wasn't able to catch any. I felt like I went back to 5~6 sessions back if that makes any difference to others but I certainly felt that way.
Then I started conversation with my brother-in-law and sister-in-law who are good surfers but just not good at sharing info.
I got some tips saying longboarders should sit further out and start to paddle earlier then shortboarders.
My kid and nephews, they literally can paddle out towards waves and turn around & catch it but there's no way I can do the same move and doesn't even look like that's what I should do.
Doing some research online and found this forum and found articles like these on your site.

viewtopic.php?f=15&t=37319

viewtopic.php?f=9&t=33315

Most part I could relate to my experience. I just want to clarify what I should do.
I got of course million questions but I think I can start with something like below;

1. From what I read, longboarders should sit further out and start paddle earlier.
If waves breaks faster by wind then how I should adjust? Go even further out? Pop up faster?

2. With 8' it's super stable but it's awfully heavy and can't really do what my kids do like paddle out and turn around quick or paddle to side and turning towards the beach while paddling...etc.
How should I handle with mine? Just try to read as early as possible and plan ahead and paddle more than shortboarders to be in the right spot?

Any advice would be appreciated.
I can tell this is amazing sports but it surely frustrates me a lot of times.
I don't want to give up on it and I just need some help.

Thanks.

[dtc]

Longboarders can catch the wave earlier (when it’s less steep) than shortboards. It’s easier to catch it when it’s not as steep, you have more time as well (until the wave breaks) That’s why they can sit out further, because they can catch waves earlier

But longboards are big and heavy. To catch a wave you need to get to the right speed, and a longboard takes a while to get to that speed because it’s heavier - hence why you have to start earlier (or have better positioning).

If you are getting hung up at the top, then it’s either (or both) poor paddling or poor positioning. As waves get bigger and steeper, the margin for error in those things become smaller.

So it’s ‘just’ a matter of making sure your paddling is on point (body position on board is correct) and you get your positioning right (which might be a matter of trial and error)

[waikikikichan]

2. With 8' it's super stable but it's awfully heavy and can't really do what my kids do like paddle out and turn around quick or paddle to side and turning towards the beach while paddling...etc.

So turn your 8 foot board into a 2 foot board, which will be easier to pivot around on a axis. Sit ( back ) and Spin ( egg beater kick ) Pull with one hand on the board and the other hand pushing back the water.

[steveylang]

Catching any waves on any board requires the right positioning, timing, and decent paddle power. If you have the first 2 you don't have to be Michael Phelps to successfully catch waves, but you do want to develop good paddling technique as you learn. Longer boards give you longer windows in which to catch and ride a wave successfully.

You just happen to be in that frustrating stage where things often don't seem to be working or really make sense, and you don't know how to fix it (yet.) Just keep at it and get help where you can, it's worth it and one day you'll look back on these days (mostly) nostalgically. It can be hard to give advice here because we don't know exactly what you're doing, if you can get one of your relatives to take some videos of your waves and share them here, you'd get some good, detailed advice.

Just to elaborate on waikiki's sit and spin technique, when you want to turn the board around and start paddling for a wave:

1. Grab your board's rails just in front/next to your legs.
2. Slide you butt back, the back end of your board will start to sink and the nose will rise, the further you push your butt down the easier it will be to spin around.
3. Now spin your board around towards the shore. Use one hand to push the water, the other hand to move the board, and do a circling kick with your legs also to help swing the board around.
4. When you're facing shore, get down on the board and start to paddle. Make sure to be looking to your side at the wave as it approaches from behind you, that will help greatly with your timing.

Make sure to practice this while you're waiting for waves, it doesn't take long to become a natural easy movement.

[shoreman]

Thank you so much for all the tips and encouragement. I started the posting in a bit negative tone but mostly i enjoy ocean time with kids. It's funny I'm the one who taught them all about soccer for the past 4~5 years and now they're telling me how to read waves. :p
I'll probably go down to the shore this weekend. I will keep all the words above in mind and try again!!

Have a great weekend all!

[IB_Surfer]

You can do some of what your kids do:

1) To turn around easily, sink the tail and turn the board as the nose is up. As a begginner it will take some practice, but once you do it a couple of times you will dig how easy it is.

2) Catching waves: So, although your 8ft board works some of the time, you probably need a 9ft foot or bigger. Unless you are fit and weigh 160lbs, the 8ft foamy is not big enough for a big guys beginner. Look for a used one if you can find it, or buy new, but buy big. It will solve most of your problems, plus once you are better you will dig it on smaller days.

Hope that helps

[shoreman]

Ha ha I'm lil shy of 160lbs. Got no excuse.
Spinning on the board has been working pretty good. Now I'm facing the ocean and do 180 degree turn instead of seating sideway and do 90 degree turn.

Between length and volume which is more important factor for beginner like me?
If I get 9+ fiber glass that'll have less volume than my 8 ft foamy, right? Would it be easier because of extra length?

Thanks

[IB_Surfer]

Volume

Your 8ft foamy is 8 x 22 x 3, so find a longboard a foot longer with the rest of the dimensions the ame or bigger.

[goatts]

Keep at it. Don't give up. It can take a while. Watch some youtube videos and take some lessons if you can. Get a used 9'6" fiberglass board and try that.