longboard help - first board in 15 years

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longboard help - first board in 15 years

Postby cookiemac » Wed Jun 10, 2020 5:17 am

Hey!
I'm getting back to surfing regularly after taking years off (save for a few times a year) with little kids that need moms attention. I'm now going out a couple of times a week. I've used an 8'0" stewart for last 15 years. My board has been through a lot and it's time for this mama to upgrade and maybe hit some longboard goals. I'm 5'6" 145 lbs, female. I'm considering getting a 9'0/ 9'2", custom-ish (Almond surfboards in socal). They also had a used 9'6".. I've never ridden larger than 9'2".

Is the jump from 9'0" to 9'6" meaningful? I could save $$ and buy a used 9'6" they have, it just seemed HUGE compared to me 8'0". I dream of walking but at this point I'm not doing that. They also didn't have any loaner boards - is it weird to buy a board you've never tried??

Thank you in advance for your wisdom!
(I posted this in the longboard forum but didn't get a response and couldn't figure out how to delete so thought I'd try here! Not trying to spam!)
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Re: longboard help - first board in 15 years

Postby dtc » Wed Jun 10, 2020 9:14 am

Hopefully waikikichan chimes in, he longboards a lot more than me and is about your size as well.

What is your aim for getting a longer board? As in, why not replace your board with another 8ft board if that is working for you?

Nothing wrong with a longer board, just as an initial question.

There are quite a few women that surf where I surf about your age (actually, mostly a bit older) and they generally have 9ft (or so) boards with really flat rockers, thumb tails, fairly wide (21 1/2 or so), and pick up waves super early and cruise along the face. Walk up and down a bit but not trying to nose ride particularly nor doing big turns. They are having a lot of fun, and if that is what you are after then the length (9ft or 9ft6) doesnt matter a huge amount. You hop onto the wave, stand up, surf along

However, if you are after something that is a bit more 'performance' - more turns, or perhaps bigger waves, then the length will come into play a little bit more
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Re: longboard help - first board in 15 years

Postby waikikikichan » Wed Jun 10, 2020 12:05 pm

Forgive my rambling as thoughts come to mind:

1) If you like Stewarts, enough to trust it for 15 years, then why not stick with them ? Now he has Surftech construction also in his shapes. The new Stewart Ripster comes to mind.

2) 9'6" is really long for someone not 6 feet tall. Most surfers learning to cross-step, usually end up a foot from the nose ( not 12 inches but like a step away ). And that's on a 9'0". So on a 9'6", you need to do a whole cross and uncross to get to the nose. ( and you admitted you can walk on the board yet ). 9'6" feels like a marathon to get to the nose.

3) "is it weird to buy a board you've never tried??" - most people I know buy boards without using a loaner or demo. I have "borrowed" my friend's board for a wave or two, to get a feel. But usually I go on trust with my chosen shaper.

4) Why did you chose Almond surf boards ? Were they nearby your home ? Hopefully they'll get more used boards come in as time goes by. You're not in a rush right ?
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Re: longboard help - first board in 15 years

Postby cookiemac » Wed Jun 10, 2020 2:40 pm

dtc wrote:What is your aim for getting a longer board? As in, why not replace your board with another 8ft board if that is working for you?

There are quite a few women that surf where I surf about your age (actually, mostly a bit older) and they generally have 9ft (or so) boards with really flat rockers, thumb tails, fairly wide (21 1/2 or so), and pick up waves super early and cruise along the face. Walk up and down a bit but not trying to nose ride particularly nor doing big turns.

However, if you are after something that is a bit more 'performance' - more turns, or perhaps bigger waves, then the length will come into play a little bit more


I wanted a longer board in hopes that it would not only suit me, but provide my husband an opportunity to use it. He doesn't surf, and with my 8'0" he'll never have success. With a 9'0" we could take both boards to the beach :wink: I'd also like to get into waves a bit earlier - I'm not able to get in very early now, and with the shape combined with my skill level, I miss more waves than I catch. I also can't make a drop on bigger waves on current board, where other boards i've tried have been more forgiving. Hence my desire to get in earlier! Other than that I don't need a longer board and would probably be happy with any upgrade of current board!

I don't need to do "big turns" but I definitely want to be able to turn. No desire for big waves, but do want to be able to go out and know I can get into waves and don't need to only go out if it's 3' and under. I try to get in early on big sets, don't make it, and pass on them if I'm closer inside.
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Re: longboard help - first board in 15 years

Postby cookiemac » Wed Jun 10, 2020 2:56 pm

waikikikichan wrote:1) If you like Stewarts, enough to trust it for 15 years, then why not stick with them ? Now he has Surftech construction also in his shapes. The new Stewart Ripster comes to mind.
I don't have any particular affinity for stewarts other than I bought what a friend was getting rid of, and have just used what I had since. More like what I had was fine, and money priorities were elsewhere!

2) 9'6" is really long for someone not 6 feet tall. Most surfers learning to cross-step, usually end up a foot from the nose ( not 12 inches but like a step away ). And that's on a 9'0". So on a 9'6", you need to do a whole cross and uncross to get to the nose. ( and you admitted you can walk on the board yet ). 9'6" feels like a marathon to get to the nose.
Thank you! Sounds like 9'6" is out, perhaps I should be going for an 8'6" for myself, but wanting my taller husband to be maybe be able to use it the 9'0" is better all around bet.

3) "is it weird to buy a board you've never tried??" - most people I know buy boards without using a loaner or demo. I have "borrowed" my friend's board for a wave or two, to get a feel. But usually I go on trust with my chosen shaper.
Perfect - thank you!

4) Why did you chose Almond surf boards ? Were they nearby your home ? Hopefully they'll get more used boards come in as time goes by. You're not in a rush right ?

Yeah they are just local to us. I'm not in a rush, but we have the money earmarked and I'm very excited. So maybe I am in a rush. :wink: I have enough to get a custom one. In talking with them, they weren't actually suggesting any changes from their basic profile, so really the only custom thing would be the color. More made to order than custom. Is that red flag?
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Re: longboard help - first board in 15 years

Postby waikikikichan » Wed Jun 10, 2020 10:34 pm

cookiemac wrote:In talking with them, they weren't actually suggesting any changes from their basic profile, so really the only custom thing would be the color. More made to order than custom. Is that red flag?


Red flag for what concern ?

Which Almond model you looking at ?
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Re: longboard help - first board in 15 years

Postby cookiemac » Thu Jun 11, 2020 12:26 am

Red flag for what concern ?

Red flag in paying for custom surfboard that isn't custom shaped just choosing color. Not trying to say red flag = bad business, just maybe I should have longer conversation to get more customization?

Which Almond model you looking at ?[/quote]

Looking at Surf thump.
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Re: longboard help - first board in 15 years

Postby dtc » Thu Jun 11, 2020 1:06 am

cookiemac wrote:
Thank you! Sounds like 9'6" is out, perhaps I should be going for an 8'6" for myself, but wanting my taller husband to be maybe be able to use it the 9'0" is better all around bet.

In talking with them, they weren't actually suggesting any changes from their basic profile, so really the only custom thing would be the color. More made to order than custom. Is that red flag?


Buy your husband a wavestorm and buy yourself the board you want. I think that is the best solution for both of you (unless your husband is over 200lb, which is about the wavestorm's limit). I believe you can buy the wavestorm and try it out and return it if it doesnt work well. Nothing worse than someone borrowing your board on a great day of peeling waves! (or, I guess, you both get cheaper longboards, one 8ft something and one 9ft - I'm all for supporting local shapers - all my boards are from local shapers - but obviously you can get cheaper off the rack boards, or second hand boards)

To some extent getting a standard board from a shaper isnt really 'custom', but that doesnt mean its a bad choice. The boards will be well made, the design will be a proven design (unlike a cheaper mass manufactured board that could be designed by anyone), you get after sales services and you can definitely tweak the board if you want (for example, if the board is just for you then perhaps you get a board slightly thinner because you are light, but retaining length and width).

Plus the all important spray job, which is the real reason you go custom and which will take more time to decide than choosing the board in the first place
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Re: longboard help - first board in 15 years

Postby waikikikichan » Thu Jun 11, 2020 1:48 am

cookiemac wrote:Red flag in paying for custom surfboard that isn't custom shaped just choosing color. Not trying to say red flag = bad business, just maybe I should have longer conversation to get more customization?


Standard stock shape doesn't mean a non-custom board. Now if you say you want a board in-between the Surf Thump and the Sano Special, then they would have to customize. But if your Surf Thump is hand shaped, it is a custom board. They have models they deem are good enough to be part of their line-up. Don't try to fix what ain't broke would be the motto.

Having a custom color does make it your own though.

If you want more customization, what features would you change on the Surf Thump ? Rocker, Rail, Nose width, Tail width, Bottom Contour, Tail design ? Glassing maybe ? Volan cloth ? Stringer thickness ?
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Re: longboard help - first board in 15 years

Postby cookiemac » Sat Jun 13, 2020 5:16 pm

I really appreciate all your input.
It prompted me to think about what I really want. I took my 7 y/o daughter out this week and used her 7'0" foamie while we were out and had a blast. Realized I probably don't need so much length. But a litter longer than 8'0" will help me get in a little earlier. I decided to go shorter than 9'0" since I am buying for myself, and not my husband. I'm going with an 8'6" Almond.

Which model? I switched off the surf thump and am looking at the Joy model. I'm hoping the tail width and shape will give more liveliness with turns like I experienced on my daughters board, but the extra length will still keep it feeling like a longboard. Whereas the surf thump feels more traditional longboard - which I love, but I'm realizing that what I loved in borrowing other peoples boards was the ability to turn more quickly. I suppose I want a longboard that can turn easily, but can also cruise on. Best of both worlds. Since I can only buy one.... I'm leaning towards the Joy!
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Re: longboard help - first board in 15 years

Postby waikikikichan » Sat Jun 13, 2020 9:06 pm

cookiemac wrote:but I'm realizing that what I loved in borrowing other peoples boards was the ability to turn more quickly.


Were the other boards you borrowed ( and your daughter's soft board ) Pin Tails ?

Pin tails may be more "responsive", but that's like saying a Tour-de France bike is more responsive than a beach cruiser. But for most people, a beach cruiser is easier to ride than a drop-bar road bike. Consider the tail to be the profile of a tire.
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Re: longboard help - first board in 15 years

Postby cookiemac » Sun Jun 14, 2020 6:20 am

shoot no, they weren't. my daughters is squash tail. I was so excited I put down a deposit today. probably need to go back tomorrow... :roll:

The info and convos I'm having with you guys here are what I need to be having with the shaper / company. really appreciate your input. Ok so if I look at two boards (surf thump and lumberjack) that have a thumb tail and a squash tail, is it just a matter of preference?

If you have any other input or suggestions I'm totally open. Taking your input back into shop tomorrow!
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Re: longboard help - first board in 15 years

Postby dtc » Sun Jun 14, 2020 9:03 am

There is a difference in how tail feel/perform although it’s probably not huge in a longboard.

I would say the lumberjack is preferred for nose riding and the surf thump for cruising and turning. Not just because of the tail, but that is part of it - the surf thump has a few more curves in its outline (curves = Easier turns but straighter rails = more speed) the square tail on the lumberjack is more stable (stability is the opposite of manoeuvrability, albeit that both boards will be stable).

So the boards will be slightly different, or perhaps they each are slightly better at different aspects; but both will be lots of fun.
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Re: longboard help - first board in 15 years

Postby delphin » Sun Jun 14, 2020 10:39 am

The other variable that women surfers contend with is proportionality...getting out comfortably in shoulder to head high is easier on the shoulder muscles and stamina with a board that has enough volume and weight for your size, but not too much. Other dims will account for prevailing conditions. For example, I have a light WRV 9' which is a total wave catcher in glassy conditions, but with any meaningful off shore wind, becomes a sail.

I recently noticed custom longboards in the UK being offered which included a lighter slightly narrower version longboard for women, for the reasons above (She Captain Longboard).

There are some links on line that may help with the proportionality question but a good heuristic once you settle on length is to tuck a board like what you are considering under your arm. How does it feel? grab the rails and hoist it overhead...how do your hands feel around the rails? And of course, colour...your eye should feel at peace with nothing distracting on the deck.

It is so exciting to get a new board, and making it yours begins as you consider all the factors.

I hope you post a pic once it is ready! Good luck.
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Re: longboard help - first board in 15 years

Postby waikikikichan » Sun Jun 14, 2020 12:15 pm

cookiemac wrote:If you have any other input or suggestions I'm totally open. Taking your input back into shop tomorrow!


You ever heard the phrase " Too many cooks, spoil the pot " ? You ask 10 different surfers the same question, you'll probably get 10 different answers. You need to be truthful and listen to yourself and talk honestly to your chosen shaper. Please don't say "well xxxx said this, and xxxx said that, I heard from xxxx that blah is blah and blah is blah, to your shaper. Listen to what he recommends and go for it.
( but I'll be honest with you, it takes usually more than a few attempts with customs boards to get it right, it's like a relationship that builds over time )

By the way, you can't just consider one aspect ( such as the tail design ). You have to consider the board as a whole. You can get a pin tail that really slow or a squash tail that unstable depending on the other elements of the board.
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