by oldmansurfer » Sun May 17, 2020 5:21 pm
My experience learning to surf was quite different from most here on this forum but perhaps not too different from others from my area and time. In two weeks time of surfing every day after work and on the weekends I was able to do a bit better than her. I learned on a 6'10" x 18" x 2.75" single glassed in fin diamond tail surfboard with no leash. While I was a swimmer since I was a kid, on the swim team in high school (I had just graduated) and one of the fastest swimmers around, I didn't train but was fit from paipo boarding. I had a 4 foot plywood and fiberglass paipo board that I both kicked with fins and paddled with my arms to catch the bigger waves. I was unlike her in being completely at home in the ocean as I grew up in the ocean. A few months prior to learning to surf I had switched from a prone riding position to a knee board position so I was popping up to my knees on every wave on my paipo board. Unlike her I had zero instruction. In two weeks I could ride 9 out of 10 waves to their end making turns to stay in the power so not go off the end before the wave ended and not get passed by. But unlike her I didn't think this was a big accomplishment as I was much better paipo boarding. However it was enough to encourage me to continue learning. It took me a year before I didn't think about going back to paipo boarding.
So what is worse.... dying or regretting it for the rest of my life? Obviously I chose not regretting it.