What I can conclude: just like last time, I was noticing that I was at the top of the wave each time I paddled. I made sure to arch my back, cup my hands, keep my feet together, as well as staying on a good position on the board, and I was noticing the waves go straight to shore in front of me. Meanwhile, other people on long boards had 0 trouble catching waves, which I guess comes down to break knowledge, as it isn’t my local break (one of the few good beaches I know that are open) I think I was also a little scared seeing a wall of water come towards me, which I know can set you off for disaster. I’d also like to point out, I often fall backwards when making the drop, as my guess is that its an instinct to prevent the nose from diving, but by not leaning forward, makes the board fly in front of me.
I also felt like it was gonna nosedive on the drop (probably from me adjusting to paddling on a shortboard, farther up the board is my guess).
Anyway, I know that my paddling fitness must improve, which will come over time and with workouts at home. The only kinds of workouts I’ve been doing is cruising down my street with surf skates (swell tech and hamboard, yes the one from shark tank) but that doesn’t do anything to improve my upper body.
Anyway, sorry about the length, but I just truly think about these experiences too much and I’d love to know if there is anything to improve my technique on the board, as well as if I should go back to my wavestorm (the only other board I have and my most floaty board) Or maybe I’m just a kook. And yes this was 45-50 degree water.
