Hello, my name is Stephen and still on the right side of 40. Just started surfing in the last 6 months despite living on the coast all my life. Usually get out 3 or 4 times a month due to my job and family commitments, thus progress is slow VERY slow. Surfing has taught me about failing despite best efforts. I’m currently at consciously incompetent as a learner.
Currently riding BiC magnum 8’4” dura tec, I’m not good enough to ride a glass board as it would be destroyed before the end of the year.