
It was, to be honest, a bit steeper take off than I like, and the crowds were a bit too thick

But I was happy to have made the paddle out, and was resting in the line-up before committing to any waves.
Suddenly, everyone starts moving forward with a certain urgency - BIG set coming in

So I paddle at this double overhead monster, and try and duck it... but it closes out bang smack on the line up

Then I had the scariest hold down Ive ever had, and got tossed about like a rag doll in a tumble drier, then had to paddle up to the surface to get some much needed air

Then I did that thing you do after getting wiped out before you've even stood up - looked around wondering who'd seen me make such a twat of myself. But to my horror/relief I saw all the guys that had 30seconds ago been next to me in the line-up doing exactly the same thing - spitting seawater, breathing hard, wondering where they were, and who was watching... This monster wave had caught almost the whole line-up inside

Anyone else get caught?
