Timing (paddling in and drop-in)

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Re: Timing (paddling in and drop-in)

Postby Ratfinksurfer » Mon May 21, 2018 4:32 pm

jaffa1949 wrote:The exact position. Is where there is enough board resistance to push up against and the pop forces the board into the gravity chute, and power the first bottom turn.

I would like to hear more about this moment where the board is on this tipping point. I'm always missing waves. Am I not paddling hard enough? Am I in the wrong position? Too far inside/outside.
The times when I do actually catch the wave I feel like my paddling rhythm is good, (slow paddle, look over my shoulder, if it looks good paddle deep and then pop.)

I can't count how many times I paddle like a maniac and the wave goes under me. Then there are the truly heartbreaking waves that are big and perfect but I don't go because I'm scared it will closeout on my back. I always wonder, "That might have been an amazing ride."

What is it called when a surfer has "caught" the wave, they're in a prone position doing a cobra push up, usually looking down the line deciding if they want to go for it. I feel like I have never had that "superman" moment. I feel like this "board resistance" thing and "gravity chute" is all related to this superman cobra pose. How do get to this place?
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Re: Timing (paddling in and drop-in)

Postby oldmansurfer » Mon May 21, 2018 5:43 pm

You are probably too far out from the beach or too far out on the shoulder or both. I miss usually several waves every time I surf but I am surfing jumbled up erratic waves and there are currents that rapidly take me out of position. However if I miss a wave it will be most often because I am too far out on the shoulder. Most often if I am too far out or too far in I won't even paddle for the wave. If I am too far in I paddle out to keep from getting pounded if I am too far out I may use the wave to get further (paddle and miss it) in or wait for a bigger wave. You don't want to think of superman as you are popping up. Superman has his hands out in front of him from this position it will be very hard to popup. Your hands need to go as far back toward your waist as you can get them to make for an easier popup.
So what is worse.... dying or regretting it for the rest of my life? Obviously I chose not regretting it.
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Re: Timing (paddling in and drop-in)

Postby oldmansurfer » Mon May 21, 2018 6:16 pm

I should also say that the breaks I often surf have a shifting peak so it makes it difficult to lineup. If you see a wave coming in and it looks like you are in the right place most often you are not because the peak will shift over .....most of the time...... then sometimes you are in the right place. It's probably why I am the only surfer out.
So what is worse.... dying or regretting it for the rest of my life? Obviously I chose not regretting it.
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Re: Timing (paddling in and drop-in)

Postby oldmansurfer » Mon May 21, 2018 6:29 pm

LOL I just realized this forum has a swear word filter. I misspelled shift :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
So what is worse.... dying or regretting it for the rest of my life? Obviously I chose not regretting it.
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Re: Timing (paddling in and drop-in)

Postby RinkyDink » Mon May 21, 2018 8:09 pm

Ratfinksurfer wrote:
jaffa1949 wrote:The exact position. Is where there is enough board resistance to push up against and the pop forces the board into the gravity chute, and power the first bottom turn.

I would like to hear more about this moment where the board is on this tipping point. I'm always missing waves. Am I not paddling hard enough? Am I in the wrong position? Too far inside/outside.
The times when I do actually catch the wave I feel like my paddling rhythm is good, (slow paddle, look over my shoulder, if it looks good paddle deep and then pop.)

I can't count how many times I paddle like a maniac and the wave goes under me. Then there are the truly heartbreaking waves that are big and perfect but I don't go because I'm scared it will closeout on my back. I always wonder, "That might have been an amazing ride."

I really can't recommend analyzing surfing videos enough. I don't mean casually though. You have to bring these kinds of questions to the videos you watch and see if you can get the answers you're looking for from your own analysis. Look for videos of the same kind of waves you surf. Watch how experienced surfers position themselves for waves, how they pop up, how they angle their takeoff, how they deal with chop on the wave face, etc.

Sounds to me like you need to watch what a surfboard does during a takeoff. Think of the surfboard as a lever sitting on top of a fulcrum or think about how a see-saw acts as you walk up one side, reach the fulcrum, and then walk down the other side of the fulcrum. What does the bench do as you walk along it? How is this similar to a takeoff in surfing? If you're standing on the fulcrum of a wave, what happens if you put all your weight on the back of the board? What happens if you weight the front of the board? How do you get gravity to help you when you're up on the fulcrum of a wave? Think of your popup as a see-saw. If you put too much weight on the back of your board during your popup, then the wave has a greater chance of passing under you. If you nudge your board forward and down as you popup on the fulcrum, then you have a better chance of sliding down the "chute", "incline", "face" of the wave. Anyway, I think it's really important to develop sharp observation skills to progress in surfing.
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Re: Timing (paddling in and drop-in)

Postby dtc » Mon May 21, 2018 11:45 pm

I'll just add that the take off on a wave relies mostly on gravity, not wave power. So you need to be in a place that allows the board to use gravity to 'go down the hill' - as RinkyD says, tipping over that balance point. this might assist with your positioning, knowing that you do in fact need to be far enough in (close to the beach) to allow your board to go down the hill.

Also keep in mind that you can catch a wave from half way up the face or from the top of the face, but you cant catch a wave from the back of the wave. ie being a little too far in still allows a margin for error. Of course, too much too far in and the wave lands on your head.
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Re: Timing (paddling in and drop-in)

Postby Tudeo » Tue May 22, 2018 3:50 am

Good point about gravity vs wave power. I'll add, with the right amount of tilt on the wave before takeoff, it's like you can grab a hold in the water to pull yourself into the wave.
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Re: Timing (paddling in and drop-in)

Postby oldmansurfer » Tue May 22, 2018 5:04 pm

I would say this about paddling. There are some waves that require good paddling to catch them. Mostly having better paddling is useful because it allows you to be slightly out of position for the wave and still catch it. The better your paddling the more waves you can catch.
So what is worse.... dying or regretting it for the rest of my life? Obviously I chose not regretting it.
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Re: Timing (paddling in and drop-in)

Postby Tudeo » Tue May 22, 2018 11:34 pm

Better still is the No Paddle Takeoff, that's the ultimate in cool.
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Re: Timing (paddling in and drop-in)

Postby waikikikichan » Wed May 23, 2018 5:55 am

I’ve never heard someone say “Man, that guy Rips, but his paddling Sucks”. All good surfers have a good paddle. It goes hand in hand.
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Re: Timing (paddling in and drop-in)

Postby oldmansurfer » Wed May 23, 2018 6:47 am

waikikikichan wrote:I’ve never heard someone say “Man, that guy Rips, but his paddling Sucks”. All good surfers have a good paddle. It goes hand in hand.

Yep. The better paddler you are the more waves you will catch and ride which means you will improve faster than someone who can't paddle as well. By the time you get good you have built up your paddling power but also your wave reading both of which are needed for many of the best waves.
So what is worse.... dying or regretting it for the rest of my life? Obviously I chose not regretting it.
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