jaffa1949 wrote:The exact position. Is where there is enough board resistance to push up against and the pop forces the board into the gravity chute, and power the first bottom turn.
I would like to hear more about this moment where the board is on this tipping point. I'm always missing waves. Am I not paddling hard enough? Am I in the wrong position? Too far inside/outside.
The times when I do actually catch the wave I feel like my paddling rhythm is good, (slow paddle, look over my shoulder, if it looks good paddle deep and then pop.)
I can't count how many times I paddle like a maniac and the wave goes under me. Then there are the truly heartbreaking waves that are big and perfect but I don't go because I'm scared it will closeout on my back. I always wonder, "That might have been an amazing ride."
What is it called when a surfer has "caught" the wave, they're in a prone position doing a cobra push up, usually looking down the line deciding if they want to go for it. I feel like I have never had that "superman" moment. I feel like this "board resistance" thing and "gravity chute" is all related to this superman cobra pose. How do get to this place?