Two days surfing

I surfed my favorite spot in the middle of the bay both days. Yesterday I saw a windsurfer out. I haven't seen one in years. There were high wind advisories so it might give you a clue as to the conditions

Windy! I could walk down the beach and the onshore wind would hold my board against my body so well I didn't need to carry it. Yesterday was a different set of conditions than I am used to. It was breaking out away from the shoreline but still kind of lurching up like shore break. I must have missed 10 waves that I paddled for but couldn't get any forward motion going before the wave came and abandoned the effort. Possibly I might have been able to make some of those but it would have been very dangerous. On my wave in I got a late drop on around a 12 foot face. I knew I could do it though so I went for it and it was very steep perhaps a little bit of free falling. I made the bottom turn and found the wall was all garbled up with multiple ledges and it was closing out shortly too so I just made a small turn although my 7 foot egg board wanted to fly back up and proned out to ride the whitewater in. As I got closer to the shore the wave walled up below me and I wasn't able to get down that face and i knew it was just inches of water and I was going head first over the falls with my board so I turned sideways and ejected the board then dove head first and did a shoulder roll on the bottom. One of the rare moments that I accidentally touched the bottom when I surf. But I escaped injury and only suffered from having a load of sand in my shorts and rashy which I chose to wear so I didn't need as much sunscreen. It was an odd day too because I had to constantly paddle out and toward the break instead of the usual in and back across the break.
I am not sure why it was like that but today it was back to the usual strong current in the usual direction. It was a little bigger but I think the biggest wave I caught was around the size of that last one yesterday. I got a real good workout today with the current and chaotic waves. No really good waves in 2 days but I am happy. I can tell I am improving each time I go out just a little bit and I am staying in shape. My wave in today was a closeout and I chose to stay standing up since yesterday laying down I had trouble and I managed to drop down at least 3 ledges that walled up under me on my way in and made it to the shore without having to rinse all the sand out afterward

On days like these last two there is some serious risk involved but I always seem to escape unscathed. Hopefully that will continue

but if not you probably won't be hearing from me about it

for a while anyway if I survive unless the hospital has wifi

So what is worse.... dying or regretting it for the rest of my life? Obviously I chose not regretting it.