Latest Surfs...

[oldmansurfer]

Not conditions for the faint of heart.

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I love seeing photos with your posts. I'm going out Friday and will add a shot or two to mine.

In that photo you can see the clean water outside of that wave. On that day and frequently when there is brown water, where the waves break creates a cleaner spot in the lineup and paddling out I use this as a marker of where I want to be. The reef on the left side of the bay gets clean the quickest because the waves push water along the edge of the bay creating a rip that goes to where that wave is. So the clean water comes in over the reef on the left side of the bay and moves over to where that wave was in the middle of the bay. From the other side of the bay more dirty water comes from the river and meets up with the rip from the waves on the left side and it creates a clean water area with a real clear division. On days like that when the waves are big the water cleans up real fast as long as the river isn't still flowing.

[oldmansurfer]

Two 30 ,minute surf sessions this weekend. First day on the new sandbar created by the heavy rains and the river pushing the sand out. The second day at middle Horners. I was using my 7 foot egg and it was just right for the waves both days about head high kind of mushy with a little bit of wall. I am sure if I had the 8 foot board I would have caught more waves but even with kind of mushy conditions I managed a solid power carve on both days. Both on my first wave of the day. I think if you only saw me on those two waves you would think I knew how to surf but if you weren't very good at surfing you might think I was really good because "I no faw down"

[BoMan]

A beautiful day between storms with thigh high rollers and LONG glides. I rode left at the Patch in the AM...

and right at the channel in the PM. Both shots were taken at low tide after my sesh.

[dtc]

Busy day! I, in turn, went into the office in the AM, came home in the PM and did some more work at home. No photos available

[oldmansurfer]

I had to work yesterday so only 1 day of surf this weekend. Too bad I think the swell was bigger yesterday as well as earlier today (when I went to work and came back from work). Really different conditions today with a clean but small swell (shoulder high at most) and north winds which make it side shore blowing directly at me as I take off. The waves were fast little waves that actually tubed but only at the top so too small to fit my big hulk into. My board saw the inside of a barrel too bad I didn't have a gopro on my ankle It was actually very difficult conditions for me and the 7 foot egg board. I had to paddle hard and turn the board to angle to the right within the last couple of paddles the popup really fast and immediately put pressure on my front foot then a quick bottom turn and I am good to go. The wind was blowing on the nose of my board and I missed a few waves because of this extra effort required as opposed to the usual onshore winds which only help me to takeoff. Also once I popped up the wind blew directly into my chest which slowed me down too. I had only about half the waves that I caught where I managed to get in front of the quick little breaking wave. My last wave was my best wave where I did everything just right and rode it to the beach staying in the pocket the whole way. I was surfing the sandbar created by the river and the river water was very clean but you could see it was smoother than the rest of the water where the wind whipped the surface into little ripples. There was a very clean demarcation of where the river water met the ocean water sort of like it does in big surf and heavy rain but only the surface looked different but if I didn't notice I drifted over the much colder river water let me know. The air was much colder than the water. I used my invisible wetsuit today (extra fat over my body). It was just right

[oldmansurfer]

I had a Thanksgivings day surf session today. It was shoulder high and Horners looked like it had some waves but not nearly enough to justify the 8 surfers who were out there. I postulate that they had heard the same surf report I had and were hoping it would be bigger or they had gone to Kealia (more north from there) and it was smoking hot but insanely crowded. Anyway it didn't seem worthwhile going out there with a small crowd so I went to a break right in front of the parking area which I officially named it today to be "Potty's" because the line up is right outside of the portapotties on the beach. I caught a few fun waves and got possibly a shoulder tube because the lip hit my back shoulder but I cut my session short (maybe 20 to 25 minutes instead of the usual 30) because I saw a good sized shark (longer than my 7 foot board) about 10 to 15 yards away. It was in a wave that was about to break and pointed directly at me. I guess it was checking me out but I decided not to wait to see if it wanted me for a Thanksgivings day meal and caught the next wave in that I could easily catch so I didn't splash around much. Anyway Happy Thanksgivings to you all even if you aren't Mericans.

[dtc]

oldman turkey on the menu!

[oldmansurfer]

oldman turkey on the menu!

I was the only turkey in the vicinity

[oldmansurfer]

Two days surfing I surfed my favorite spot in the middle of the bay both days. Yesterday I saw a windsurfer out. I haven't seen one in years. There were high wind advisories so it might give you a clue as to the conditions Windy! I could walk down the beach and the onshore wind would hold my board against my body so well I didn't need to carry it. Yesterday was a different set of conditions than I am used to. It was breaking out away from the shoreline but still kind of lurching up like shore break. I must have missed 10 waves that I paddled for but couldn't get any forward motion going before the wave came and abandoned the effort. Possibly I might have been able to make some of those but it would have been very dangerous. On my wave in I got a late drop on around a 12 foot face. I knew I could do it though so I went for it and it was very steep perhaps a little bit of free falling. I made the bottom turn and found the wall was all garbled up with multiple ledges and it was closing out shortly too so I just made a small turn although my 7 foot egg board wanted to fly back up and proned out to ride the whitewater in. As I got closer to the shore the wave walled up below me and I wasn't able to get down that face and i knew it was just inches of water and I was going head first over the falls with my board so I turned sideways and ejected the board then dove head first and did a shoulder roll on the bottom. One of the rare moments that I accidentally touched the bottom when I surf. But I escaped injury and only suffered from having a load of sand in my shorts and rashy which I chose to wear so I didn't need as much sunscreen. It was an odd day too because I had to constantly paddle out and toward the break instead of the usual in and back across the break.

I am not sure why it was like that but today it was back to the usual strong current in the usual direction. It was a little bigger but I think the biggest wave I caught was around the size of that last one yesterday. I got a real good workout today with the current and chaotic waves. No really good waves in 2 days but I am happy. I can tell I am improving each time I go out just a little bit and I am staying in shape. My wave in today was a closeout and I chose to stay standing up since yesterday laying down I had trouble and I managed to drop down at least 3 ledges that walled up under me on my way in and made it to the shore without having to rinse all the sand out afterward On days like these last two there is some serious risk involved but I always seem to escape unscathed. Hopefully that will continue but if not you probably won't be hearing from me about it for a while anyway if I survive unless the hospital has wifi

[oldmansurfer]

It was stormy windy and chaotic both days. Yesterday I went out to middle Horners and didn't catch any waves worth mentioning. However the two waves that I was in the best position to ride I flubbed them. The first wave of the day for me I was right in the zone and took off and not too steep of a wave but I pearled at the bottom of this 12 or so foot drop. Avery unusual occurrence and I think it was due to me switching back to my 8 foot board. I think I had gotten used to the 7 foot egg board and just screwed up the drop riding like it was that board. The next wave that I was in good position for was a reform from an outer break and I could tell it was going to be good from right where I was and I took off and got bounced off balance and fell. There was a mean current and I spent more than 95% of my time paddling to get into and to try to stay in position. But on the good side I felt so pumped when I came in. My chest and back muscles were feeling strong.
Today I went to the middle of the bay my usual spot and spent the whole time paddling against that current. The best wave of the day that I was lined up for as I paddled to take off I hit a chop and simultaneously the wave lifted the tail of my board causing me to peal before I could popup. Probably the last wave I caught was my best one..... I guess ......my wife said she thought it was good but then she always says that when I get a long ride. Anyway good news is my paddle conditioning is improving. Even with two days of heavy currents (30 minutes each) I never felt tired of paddling which is a definite improvement from before.

[oldmansurfer]

I forgot to mention the one little bright bit from my last weekend surfing. I did a floater on takeoff maneuver where I was paddling for this overhead sized wave and it broke beneath me before I popped up but I had forward motion so I paddled a couple more times and popped up and rode the lip to the whitewater than down to the bottom of the wave and made a bottom turn. In this case there was a lot of whitewater in front of me so I jammed a really hard bottom turn and as I came around the whitewater the wave was completely flat so I cut out. I enjoy doing that maneuver because it is something I never did before. I am working on getting my skill level up to where it was before and realizing that it may not happen but I can do some things that I never did before so they make me happy.

[BoMan]

I was out in the "super moon backwash" yesterday. Getting out was a breeze because you could ride the current seaward after each wave. I had to work very hard to catch rides because the backwash pushed me back at the point I would normally be sliding down the face. Then after the take off I had to keep an eye on the point where the incoming and outgoing waves met and kick out before getting launched skyward.

[oldmansurfer]

I had a one day weekend due to work but not so bad since it's kinda flat on this side of the island (good sized on the north shore). There were head high sets today at outside Horners so I went there and only caught two waves. I did manage to get a nice carve on one of them and caught a wave on the middle section that was waist high. Wow Boman! that place looks like it has backwash all the time. At least at my beach once in a while the sand doesn't slope much................................I forgot to mention that there was a fisherman today who said he caught an 8 foot shark today and released it I had no shark sightings today maybe because he was chumming and drawing them all over to his spot

[oldmansurfer]

I forgot to mention that I think I cross stepped today. It wasn't intentional but it just seemed the thing to do and then I got five on the nose again accidental and odd because the nose of my 8 foot board has a lot of nose rocker but I was trying to keep the board moving along and ended up way out on the nose riding for a while. I guess you might call me the accidental longboarder

[oldmansurfer]

I missed surfing yesterday due to work and an office party but the conditions were good. Today it was good again but there was a crowd of maybe 10 surfers out at the main break so I shared the middle break with 2 SUP foil surfers. It was well overhead and had some shape but I only caught 3 waves, I was waiting for the sets and I needed to be right in the right place to catch them. Probably the best wave I had a chance for I fell at the bottom, an unusual thing for me but I got I leaned too far back and the board shot out in front of me on the biggest wave I managed to catch. It was good exercise and one of the SUP foil guys used to work for me long ago so it was cool to see him again.

[tomthetreeman]

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Christmas morning in the snow and wind, Narragansett RI.

[dtc]

That’s an impressive effort.

[oldmansurfer]

I was supposed to have a 3 day weekend but ended up working all three days. I got to surf yesterday and today. Yesterday I went out to Horners and it was head high to overhead but really inconsistent. There were four sets that came in that I might have caught a wave on if I were lined up but there were two separate breaks and the sets only broke at one or the other. I think I only caught one wave which I did a bottom turn to cutback and then fell down while moving forward on the board because the wave was flat. Today was a Christmas present. There were some good waves and I got the best rides I had in at least a couple months. There was a tourist guy with a longboard out with me and the first wave I caught which I did a few top to bottom turns on he said "good wave". I didn't say anything and paddled back out and caught a wave where I did a bottom turn to top turn to a full roundhouse cutback into the whitewater follow by a couple more bottom turn to top turn combinations. When I paddled back out I said "That was a good wave". We were joined by a couple guys on SUPs. One of the guys I surfed with from way back when I first started surfing and I have known him from well before that as well. I asked him how he was doing and he said "I could be better, decided to torture myself." I asked "Is that a foil SUP?" He answered "Yes". He had been doing it for about 2 weeks now and it was still really challenging. More guys started to come out and I had to go in. On my last wave I did a bottom turn to off the lip (backside) that was pretty good. I did it because there was a guy in the lineup and I was trying to avoid him which I did but I also allowed the wave to get in front of me and I wasn't able to catch back up with it. If I were in a pro contest I might have gotten 2 or 3 points for that one turn but for me it was a 10 pointer because it felt really good. Anyway so happy... this was the best Christmas present I got ....even better than the case of Beer from Kona Brewing Company

[kookRachelle]

today is the first day I haven't surfed since last Tuesday (12/19). My arms are thanking me, but I miss it terribly already.

that is all.

[oldmansurfer]

My second 3 day weekend this time I go to the beach all three days but unfortunately only ankle to waist high waves, but good workout cardio and paddling and lots of practice popping up. Besides bottom turns the only other turn I did in three days was a little check turn today because I was getting too far ahead of the wave. But still three days of ocean therapy should last me to next weekend.