Been bodyboarding for 3 months to get some ocean knowledge, confidence etc because i'm not a great swimmer (and cause its Fun!), been teaching myself more seriously to swim since a year ago in the ocean with friends' help and the internet as ive never had lessons before.
i'm confident to swim back to shore now(and when to go out with that in mind) and know a good amount about the ocean and waves so have finally started surfing a month ago at age 25 after been hooked from the sand. There isnt much of a surf culture here in the seychelles( although growing i think), one quicksilver shop that mainly sells clothes( and a couple super costly boards) and one surf school who are outrageously expensive (catering to tourists i imagine) so i've been doing it all alone with this awesome sites help and surf simply etc, been great so far! I go 2-4 times a week for 1-3 hours with no crowds (like zero people) to a beachbreak so i get ample time to surf with my 7'6'' soft top
So i joined to learn from you guys and gals, ask questions and to share the stoke! Crazy to think ive never been exposed to surfing before, AT ALL, only seen it in cartoons and a couple movies when i was young and never knew anyone related to water sports and when i seen a surfer shredding for the first time while on the beach just under a year ago, something clicked man, a whole new world i never kknew existed has engulfed me with purpose...A year later and i think of the ocean or surfing every single day, yeew! Apologies for the ramblings hehe, Peace
