Hello everyone (Mattia from CA)

[malattia]

Ciao everyone,

New user here and new surfer. I started surfing mid last summer, at the dawn of my forties.
After a couple of attempts during family vacations, once in Hawaii 4 years ago and once again in Bali 2 years ago, the third one in Mexico (Punta de Mita) sticked and now I get nervous if I don't hit the water at least once a week.

I generally go to Half Moon Bay's Princeton Jetty (surfers beach?) or Dunes and Montara when they are not too big.
Here's a video of myself showing off one of my many failures:

I ride a 8 ft Rusty Yeti, looking to go shorter as I get better.
https://goo.gl/photos/j9MwwT5cd7E5PD4h7

I'm originally from Italy (never surfed there), I lived in Japan for 8 years until 2015 (never surfed there either), until I moved to the Bay Area in California 1.5 years ago.

Anyhow, good to meet everyone.
-- mattia

[dtc]

Welcome

First step - find a better wave! that one on the video is terrible. Or at least on that day.

[surf patrol]

Hi Mattia, welcome to Surfing Waves!

[malattia]

First step - find a better wave! that one on the video is terrible. Or at least on that day.

Heh, thanks. Yes, that day was quite terrible. I have had better ones since, but this video is the only one that I have.

Hi Mattia, welcome to Surfing Waves!

Thanks! And thanks for embedding the video in the post.

[oldmansurfer]

You need to get into the wave sooner which means paddle harder or more efficiently. Late takeoff airdrop to wipe out sequence is ok but what I want to see is the airdrop to landing it sequence. But on waves like that I would try for a floater, get down and back up the wave before it pitches over. Anyway welcome to the forum and feel free to post more wipeouts or whatever.

[surfdaddy]

Hey Mattia!
Nice meeting a fellow beginner who lived in Japan and live in SF, too! I just moved back from Japan myself and started surfing a few months ago. Actually going back to Tokyo on business next month and thinking about surfing somewhere nearby.

[malattia]

Hey Mattia!
[...] Actually going back to Tokyo on business next month and thinking about surfing somewhere nearby.

What a coincidence. I'm going to be in Tokyo from the 12th to the 25th next month. Not sure that I'm going to be able to go surfing, but I have definitely been considering the idea. Chiba seems to have some pretty waves.

[oldmansurfer]

More videos! I wish I could get someone else to video me

[malattia]

More videos! I wish I could get someone else to video me

Yeah, that was an unusual one... In fact that video is from last January and I haven't got any other done.

In fact:

You need to get into the wave sooner which means paddle harder or more efficiently.

I think I get more out of my strokes these days. I think I'm also getting better at finding the right spot on the board so that the wave doesn't leave me behind.