by waikikikichan » Wed Dec 16, 2015 11:09 am
Easy, just become Un-hydrodynamic by scooting back and dragging your feet and knees.
But think about it, if the wave is so powerful that it's hard to stop, maybe you shouldn't. If you do manage to stop, you'll turn around with no momentum to fight the next wave ( and next, and next ). Say you're at the shopping mall and are going down an escalator. You suddenly see your friend on the floor above. Should you try to run UP the DOWN escalator ? I see that's what a lot of beginners do, try and fight mother nature. Learn about the wave and the ocean. Learn to work with it, not against it.
Part of the problem is going straight. When you learn to trim and ride along the face, you'll end your ride in a better place. If you do find yourself riding the white water on your belly, try dragging a the foot on the side you want to go to that has a more clear channel to paddle back.