Grew up surfing at Deerfield Beach in Florida when staying with my grandparents in the summers and over spring breaks. The surf shop had a massive parrot and skate park out back- still there anyone? Anyway, I lived in Pittsburgh and now Atlanta so getting to the ocean hasnt been the easiest but the want to get back out there has always lingered. My wife and I travel to Folly Beach a lot and this year I decided to give it a shot again and rented a board. Unfortunately it was when Bertha was blowing through (not that I would have done better otherwise)...but to say it was tough...well-hence the "head first" in the title. It was an eye opener to say the least and proved quickly I didnt remember much except for how to get washed up on shore
As an Ironman competitor I thought I was in shape enough to do it as well but found out quickly how wrong I was there too. Anyway- the plan is to continue as many trips as possible to the shore and then move to somewhere along the east coast after I finish my rotations next year. We just had a baby boy and I want him to grow up on the water and I am determined to learn how to do this again. My ears are always open and willing to take any and all advice.
Cheers!
Ryan
