Well today was the loopiest punchiestsurf I have had inflicted on me for sometime.
About 4ft and full Jekyll and Hyde surf , take mostly easy with occasional super quick on with a change in angle as some hit the point of the sand bar, the change would kick to whole thing to double the rest of the wave height and open a warp at the bottom.
Blue clean takeoff would suddenly suck sand and look like the interior of a cement mixer.
Your feet and board would instantaneously swap position with your head in a singular rotary movement at high speed, the lip would then attempt to drive your knees through your chest and out the back of your neck.
This disaster was usually prevented as you were ironed flat on the sand bank and given a sand enema in every orifice.
Uncle Jaffa was subjected to this indignity several times before tuning to be able to make SOME about a 5 to 1 smack to wave ratio, but what waves they were.
Only three out as it was a freak unweb-connected swell
Bruise battered ( genuinely ) but pleased I can still do it on days like that.

I've taken up troll hunting just for fun, instead of a rifle I'll just use a pun! 冲浪爷爷