How do you react to large waves ? poll

[djanubus]

So, Ive been surfing for about 2-3 months and I've gotten pretty good in head high and less surf. I've been snowboarding for about 16 years so I adapted fast and have been shredding a short board everyday for hours and hours. You all know the joy of first turns, cut backs, what you THINK is your first barrel haha, in general I love surfing.
Ok here's the big bad wave part. Today I was surfing some 4 -5 ft sets having some fun when a few rouge waves rolled through, no biggie ducked through em, and I was fine but, a little nervous ( due to a bad duckdive experience earlier in the week). A few more came later on and I had to ditch my board, get dragged, swim like crazy, get dragged on and on... I think its all over but, I pop up and way further out than I could have paddled or swam in time I see the largest wave I've ever been in the water with. Everything gets quiet and I've never felt more alone or scared in my life. I take off my leash just in time and dive for it. Alas, this didnt work, it threw me to the bottom ( very very deep water) to my surprise and plants me, luckily in a crouched position after a few rolls. Total time under about 20 sec. I dart to the top and barely make it, but not without an extra mouth full of water. I spend the next ten minutes swimming back in, out of breath and tired, luckily another surfer grabbed my board.
All in all as I write it its not nearly as bad as the rest of you guy's stories but, here's my question, how do you get over that? Im literally still shaken and this happened 3 hours ago. All I can think about is how I thought my time had come as an 8- 10 ft wave was about to pull my plug. I dont want to get into the water every day with that image in my head.
SO, any advice? anything I could have done different? or should I be happy that my "worst surfing experience" came so early and I can go on about my day.

[garbarrage]

for starters, never take your leash off... you sent a wave-propelled projectile through to the inside and could've really hurt someone. a wave that size may rip your leash off (happened to me a few weeks ago), or snap it, but not much you can do about that. you can still dive deep enough the board won't be that much of a hinderance.
other than that, you've been rolled by a wave that was too big for you and come out alright. its only water, panic is the enemy. you'll never look at a 4-5ft wave the same way again.

[drowningbitbybit]

I take off my leash just in time and dive for it.

You took your leash off?

Okay, thats it, get out the water, you're banned

[djanubus]

Thanks for responses guys! I did take my leash off. With that said I did make sure no one was behind, or near me at all, there was noone in the water today, the surfer that grabbed it was standing in waist high water about to paddle out. But, I do understand the danger in that, I just panicked thinking that a wave that size would drag my board so hard it would take me for a longer ride than usual. Lesson learned, I suppose the time I took to take if off i could have spent diving deeper under water.

[trifish]

^^ your board is the only thing out there keeping you a float if you get in a tight situation. By removing that your pretty much taken away your aid that helps you stay a float out of the water. Its not just safety for others, but also for yourself. I hold on to my board as tight as possible because its just me and her out there in a whole lot of water.

Also always make sure you take a good breathe if you see some big boys start rolling in at you.

[djanubus]

I hear you, as I was writing this all down I kindof kicked myself thinking back on the whole letting the board go. It wouldn't have been such an ordeal if I didnt have to swim back in.

[Jimi]

on a lighter note... I usually paddle fast, and pray I duckdive deep enough.. then go backwards over the falls...

Sometimes however I'm lucky enough to be out back too far, and can watch dbbb cop a big one and go backward over the falls!

[drowningbitbybit]

o
Sometimes however I'm lucky enough to be out back...

Yeah, when you can get out back, it is luck, you big jessie

[Ged]

Personally, if Im in the right place I try to catch it. Otherwise on reefs you can often paddle out the way if your going to get foamed. OR dive.

[rich r]

I just wanted to clear something up for people saying they would duck dive a 9' or 11' board.

That's not duck diving. That's just pushing through the wave as it breaks, using your momentum and a little bit of physics and a bunch of luck.

If someone can duck-dive a 9' board in flat water, I'd be very impressed.

Also, seconding the "Umm, you took off your leash?"

Death grip. You can probably get my fingerprints from the impressions left on the rails of my boards.