by djanubus » Mon Sep 08, 2008 11:11 pm
So, Ive been surfing for about 2-3 months and I've gotten pretty good in head high and less surf. I've been snowboarding for about 16 years so I adapted fast and have been shredding a short board everyday for hours and hours. You all know the joy of first turns, cut backs, what you THINK is your first barrel haha, in general I love surfing.
Ok here's the big bad wave part. Today I was surfing some 4 -5 ft sets having some fun when a few rouge waves rolled through, no biggie ducked through em, and I was fine but, a little nervous ( due to a bad duckdive experience earlier in the week). A few more came later on and I had to ditch my board, get dragged, swim like crazy, get dragged on and on... I think its all over but, I pop up and way further out than I could have paddled or swam in time I see the largest wave I've ever been in the water with. Everything gets quiet and I've never felt more alone or scared in my life. I take off my leash just in time and dive for it. Alas, this didnt work, it threw me to the bottom ( very very deep water) to my surprise and plants me, luckily in a crouched position after a few rolls. Total time under about 20 sec. I dart to the top and barely make it, but not without an extra mouth full of water. I spend the next ten minutes swimming back in, out of breath and tired, luckily another surfer grabbed my board.
All in all as I write it its not nearly as bad as the rest of you guy's stories but, here's my question, how do you get over that? Im literally still shaken and this happened 3 hours ago. All I can think about is how I thought my time had come as an 8- 10 ft wave was about to pull my plug. I dont want to get into the water every day with that image in my head.
SO, any advice? anything I could have done different? or should I be happy that my "worst surfing experience" came so early and I can go on about my day.