Catching that wave; what am I doing wrong?

Questions and answers for those needing help or advice when learning to surf, improving technique or just comparing notes.

Re: re:

Postby justloafing » Tue Jun 17, 2008 9:59 am

Oceanbreather wrote:I've got a similar problem. I start pearling the second I catch the wave so I have to leanback which makes it impossible to pop up. But when I reposition further back on the board I have to much drag to catch the wave in time. What angle should I be at toward the shore, 45 degrees? And where should my hands be on the rails for popping up?


What is your height, weight and what kind and size of your board?
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re:

Postby Oceanbreather » Tue Jun 17, 2008 5:23 pm

I am 5'9" and 140-150 pounds, it's been awhile since i've stepped on a scale but i'm skinny for my height.

funshape 6'6" long 1'7 1/2" wide.
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Postby Jc » Tue Jun 17, 2008 5:55 pm

I finally rode down the wave recently, I believe it was saturday

And how I did it?

1. Loads of time visualising what your gonna do, and practising pop-ups

2. Water time (not that long, all u need is good waves)

3. You have to really want it

4. ( MOST IMPORTANTLY) Relax, when ur under pressure your muscles tend to tighten up
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Postby oldwashaway » Tue Jun 17, 2008 6:02 pm

immortal technique,
You mention that you are surfing at beginner spots. Look around you at surfers who ARE catching waves at these spots. Do they use the same size boards as you? Some beginner spots are just better suited for longer boards.
If this is the case, rent or borrow a longer board at this spot until you get the hang of it and you can use your own 6'10" board.

Personal anecdote:
I'm 55 years old and started surfing 3 years ago and have progressed slowly. I started out on a 9' longboard and learned to catch waves almost too easily. It seemed I could do just about everything wrong and still catch a wave because of the size of the board. Naturally I thought I was ready to shortboard. I soon found I wasn't. I never learned proper technique.
Two lengthy, intensive training sessions with a surf coach later, I am still working on that techniqe. Admittedly, being 55 I know that overall fitness level is key in having the stamina to paddle out to the waves further out.
Now, most of the time I'm still surfing with a 7'6" funboard. Any shorter and my wave count would be too low, and any longer and I would not learn the things that matter more when board size is not so huge that it is almost as easy as popping up on dry land (OK, maybe I exaggerate.)
Now I use that 9 foot board about 10% of the time, my 7'6" funboard about 75% of the time, and about 15% of the time I borrow one of my sons' shortboards to challenge myself.
One day before I croak I'll really rip on a shortboard. Maybe not this year, but I hope before I get too stiff with arthritis.
Paddle, Paddle, Paddle - get fit, stay fit.
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Postby oldwashaway » Tue Jun 17, 2008 6:26 pm

Also, I want to humbly admit that I could be in better physical condition than I am in - but I'm working on it. I mentioned that I took some intensive private lessons from a fantastic surf coach named Russell Lewis on Kauai. One of his surf team members a few years ago, Bethany Hamilton, lost her arm in a shark attack when she was 13 years old. You may have heard of the story.
Look her up on Youtube, and watch Bethany surf. Just imagine what she must do to paddle a shortboard out and pop up with only one arm. And she is a top competitive surfer!
She inspires me. I will work on my fitness, and on my technique, and maybe someday I will be able to surf 1/10th as well as she does.
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Re: re:

Postby Oceanbreather » Tue Jun 17, 2008 6:56 pm

drowningbitbybit wrote:
Oceanbreather wrote:I've got a similar problem. I start pearling the second I catch the wave so I have to leanback which makes it impossible to pop up. But when I reposition further back on the board I have to much drag to catch the wave in time. What angle should I be at toward the shore, 45 degrees? And where should my hands be on the rails for popping up?



And finally - your hands shouldnt be on the rails! Put your hands on the deck to pop up - it makes popping up quicker and eaiser and also shunts the board forward so can help with catching the wave.

The catching a wave/leaning back/hands on deck/pop up should all be part of one smooth maneouvre.


So where should my hands be on the deck? Should they be behind my shoulders or inline with them?
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Postby oldwashaway » Tue Jun 17, 2008 8:50 pm

Here is what I was told.
Put your hands on the deck at chest level, not too far apart that you are tempted to wrap your fingers around the rails. Shoulder area is too far forward. Think just at the peck muscles, or maybe even slightly further back if that suits you. Push your shoulders up off the board and arch your back with your hips still in contact with the board. Then quickly snap your hips up, bringing your feet and legs up under you into position. By pre-arching your back, effectively your shoulders are already up off the board ready for that hip snap.
Just imagine Bethany Hamilton figuring out how to do it with one hand.

Care to chime in, anyone?
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Postby pkbum » Tue Jun 17, 2008 9:51 pm

I just finally realized that surfing is all about position.
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Postby RJD » Tue Jun 17, 2008 10:15 pm

and timing.

And the fitness to get you there.

And wax.
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Postby Jc » Tue Jun 17, 2008 10:24 pm

deffo wax,

really sucks when u catch a decent wave and you fall on your arse xD
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Postby LOLRuss » Tue Jun 17, 2008 10:54 pm

I kept slipping off last swell so I put like 3 bars of wax on my board. I shall not fall again.
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Postby Beachbum » Tue Jun 17, 2008 11:28 pm

Ya dont grab your rails since I learned to pop up that while and I had to undo that process while surfing.
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Postby immortal technique » Wed Jun 18, 2008 2:14 am

oldwashaway wrote:immortal technique,
You mention that you are surfing at beginner spots. Look around you at surfers who ARE catching waves at these spots. Do they use the same size boards as you? Some beginner spots are just better suited for longer boards.



mostly longboarders. however i see shortboarders every now and then. keep in mind this is canoes (off waikiki), everyone and their mother rents the longboards
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Postby RJD » Wed Jun 18, 2008 2:23 am

Man longboards are a whole lot easier for beginers is all.

Youve a much bigger sweet spot for balance.

A much greater take off area, so the point of catching a wave is much bigger, you can catch smaller waves earlier and ride them for longer.

You can paddle a longboard better, get and stay on your feet easier.

Shortboard = long learning process.

Man its tough enough with a long board.
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Postby immortal technique » Wed Jun 18, 2008 10:57 am

i guess my take off zone for my 6'10 FB should be closer now?
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Postby Rico » Wed Jun 18, 2008 11:11 am

hands on rails are ok on shortboards
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