by oldwashaway » Tue Jun 17, 2008 6:02 pm
immortal technique,
You mention that you are surfing at beginner spots. Look around you at surfers who ARE catching waves at these spots. Do they use the same size boards as you? Some beginner spots are just better suited for longer boards.
If this is the case, rent or borrow a longer board at this spot until you get the hang of it and you can use your own 6'10" board.
Personal anecdote:
I'm 55 years old and started surfing 3 years ago and have progressed slowly. I started out on a 9' longboard and learned to catch waves almost too easily. It seemed I could do just about everything wrong and still catch a wave because of the size of the board. Naturally I thought I was ready to shortboard. I soon found I wasn't. I never learned proper technique.
Two lengthy, intensive training sessions with a surf coach later, I am still working on that techniqe. Admittedly, being 55 I know that overall fitness level is key in having the stamina to paddle out to the waves further out.
Now, most of the time I'm still surfing with a 7'6" funboard. Any shorter and my wave count would be too low, and any longer and I would not learn the things that matter more when board size is not so huge that it is almost as easy as popping up on dry land (OK, maybe I exaggerate.)
Now I use that 9 foot board about 10% of the time, my 7'6" funboard about 75% of the time, and about 15% of the time I borrow one of my sons' shortboards to challenge myself.
One day before I croak I'll really rip on a shortboard. Maybe not this year, but I hope before I get too stiff with arthritis.
Paddle, Paddle, Paddle - get fit, stay fit.