The day I got that photo was a really special day in my career. It was at my local big wave spot and the swell was forecasted to be really big, one of the biggest swells we have on record for that wave. For those conditions to all come together — swell, wind, tide, sun — and to have surfers crazy enough to surf was just amazing. It was borderline un-surfable that day, the tide dropped and the steps in the wave were just going totally mutant!
gnarly....