In For The Long Haul In France

“Today, the period is a bit too long and that means it’s taking forever for sets to come through,” says our French correspondent, Ripitup.fr. “Sometimes there’s just one bomb or two. I’ve been here all day and probably saw both of them happen a little while apart — I shot them straight away. Everyone’s still excited about this swell, but we’re waiting for it to calm down a bit. Hopefully it’ll get good over the next two or three days.”
-----------------------------------
Subscribe:
http://www.youtube.com/subscription_center?add_user=surfline

Become a Surfline Premium Member:
https://surfl.in/2Cd36tF
----------------------------------