by sinistapenguin » Tue Oct 05, 2004 4:27 pm
Adrenaline... the most natural high there is.
The thing about surfing over other adrenaline sports is this:
Skateboarding - you can ride the streets, jump off or over things, ride huge vert ramps
Snowboarding - you can carve deep powder - you can go extreme and leap off 40ft drops.
With most of these sports, you get a bit of an adrenaline high, but barring an avalanche or similar, they are fairly predictable.
With surfing, you can NEVER get the same ride twice. No 2 waves are ever the same.
You can be sitting out back in 3 ft sets and suddenly the ocean can decide to throw a 15ft sneaker set at you. If you are skating, you can think to yourself, OK I'll drop in, grind the other side, then an indy air, then........
Everytime you paddle for a wave, you can think - I'm going for a barrell this ride, but you never know if you will get the opportunity.
A skate ramp is not going to suddenly disappear on you, it's not going to suddenly get bigger on you, it's not going to suddenly develop an horrible uneven surface and (hopefully) it's not going to collapse on top of you and hold you where you can't breathe for 2 minutes!!
From the first time your first wave takes you, you will get an adrenaline high like no other and this is what makes you pull on a cold, wet wetsuit in a freezing car park on New Years Day!
Of course it helps that apart from parking, no one charges you to use the ocean!!
Cheers
Sinista