what the hell...this sux

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what the hell...this sux

Postby nc.shredder » Sat Oct 02, 2004 1:51 am

im a surfer from va beach although i usually surf kitty hawk in nc. I use a 7'6" funboard. This sucks. I've been surfing for about a year and have made great strides in ability and a few weeks ago caught my first head high wave with success. In the last few weeks though i have basically self destructed in my surfing ability. Before i was making bottom turns with ease and surfing frontside and backside in decent surf. NOW, for some odd reason i catch a wave and can barely stand without losing composure. Also, i try to drop down the face and the board always seems to pearl n i go over the falls. This really pisses me off and everyone tells me its in my head but i dont know what the hell is going on. My board right now is cracked n taking on water but is a beater so i dont care, maybe its from the board? Or is it just in my head? or should i consider moving to a new board?
WTF...
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Postby CheeZee » Sat Oct 02, 2004 11:44 am

" hey shredder " :)

hmmm ... yeh i'd be pretty pissed too my friend ...!!

It could be your board is taking too much water as you say , depends on how much it is damaged but only you will be able to make that decision ,, its a hard call to stop using a board you love so much .. but as with everything in life " ya gotta know when to let it go bro " :wink:

It could be just in yer head though , " loosen up baby " :wink: sounds like you've been focusing way hard on riding the overheads that you have kinda blanked out the easier fun stuff ... i promise you ... if it is in yer head just loosen up for a few days , forget those overhead'ers and just spend a few days playing' ... chances are you'll relax back into your old style without losing your new abilitys :wink: :D :wink:

p.s ...never underestimate outside influences on your surfing too ! .. if your stressed outta the water ..you'll be stressed when you get back in :roll: :D
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Postby VBnorthendsurfer » Mon Oct 04, 2004 12:38 pm

im in va beach to. you ever surf first street or croatan? just curious i usually stick to 65th street.
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Postby namino tsume » Mon Oct 04, 2004 6:43 pm

could be the wave, if its too steep a board like that will peril and not react right.
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Postby nc.shredder » Thu Oct 07, 2004 1:05 am

oo xxxxx...i feel like an idiot cuz i realized the front of the board had taken on a bunch of water so it lost its balance point. I got it closed n it still is messed up so ill prolly get somthing new in the next couple months. prolly move down to 6'4"-6'6" fish or somthin like that.

as for surfing in va becah...i usually go there a lot but usually in the mornings or midafternoons. I've surfed croatan some but i dont like it. I like the vibe of the north end. I usally surf off 73rd street. but sometimes walk down to the 67-68 area. It gets good down there sometimes. The day i surfed my first overhead wuz at the north end. It wuz crazy n hardly anyone wuz out. maybe u were out there tho. o well.. take care all.. peace
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