
i went to the beach intending to sit under a palm tree all day, listening to music and having a gentle swim but when i got there there were WAVES (it was totally flat last time I was there).
There were 3 guys already surfing it, but I didn't have my board. I wasn't going to pass up an opportunity like that, so I walked about a quarter of a mile to the nearest hire place, carried one back and went in.
This is going to sound wierd, but i actually found it easier in some ways (not others!) than surfing in england as it was flat either side of the wave so you could paddle out from the left without a problem and then make it to the wave. also, there was no wind to contend with (well, not much) and the waves were all clean and green! it didn't break till it got right to the shore. I sat around for a while wetting myslef at the thought of surfing there, then went for it.
I paddled my little heart out, dropped down the wave (which seemed HUGE to me) clung on to my board and then crouched on it. The wave was way over my head and it was moving so fast it all happened so quick. I reckon it was about 6ft - i know that's not exactly huge, but this is me we're talking about and it was pipe, which made it very scary!!!
I fell off, like you do

The lifeguards had been keeping an eye on me, as I warned them I was probably going to die out there!!!!

I don't have any proof that I ever did it. I was gutted. The big hawaiian lifeguard went off for a bit, came back and gave me the most amazing shell ffrom the shore of pipe. It twists round with this gap in the middle and looks so beautiful. he suggested I put it on a necklace and wear it as a reminder of my surf there. Once i find a suitable necklace I'm NEVER going to take it off!
I still can't believe i did it. I don't care that the waves weren't huge. I just feels so good to have accomplished something like that!

I'm having the best time in Hawaii!
(edited to include developed pics!)