This Will Stoke A Newbie

[justloafing]

I just read this on a local surfing web site. I thought it was very appropriate for this site. I know how this person feels.

The web site is: http://www.wblivesurf.com/

The poster is: 2partswater


There's a fine line between surfing and sitting on your board looking like an idiot. I should know as I've done both. Until today, to the untrained eye, I had "surfed." I wore the gear, carried the board, paddled about and gotten my "hiney" kicked. But I've seen people who call themselves surfers because they have a board that they use as an accessory to their beach towel. Oh, you know what I'm talking about.

So, I've been out about 20 times now in everything from thigh to head high and traveling from Holden to the Outter Banks. I've had scratches and bruises and sore muscles and plenty of "face meet water" introductions. I've been frustrated, ticked off, nervous, exhausted, hopeful, disappointed, shocked, and humbled. Thanks to my Fleming genes, I've also been too friggin' stubborn to ever give up and there's no way I'm about to let 3.612 x 10²º gallons of sea water get the best of me.

WTF has been through it all not realizing until it was too late the holy heck of agitation that he created. He's seen me beat myself up, he's "seen" me beat up on him, and I can't even count the hours post-"surf" that I've analyzed my complete oafish reaction time in the water...and how I used to believe that with proper instruction I could have sped up this agonizingly slow learning process. A redheaded girl thinks like this for mere seconds before trashing the thought and thinking, "Screw that. I'll show all of you. Now watch this."

I went out this morning with a very small window of time, completely ill-prepared and a full day of work ahead. An hour and a half later, I emerge with only one small satisfying goal. I paddled out alone, I worked HARD, and I saw the AWESOME "melting metal" look that rain gives the ocean.

Then I spent the next 5 hours trying to make up for the fact that I was out in the water an hour longer than I should have been.

This evening, we paddled out at OUR SECRET UNDISCLOSED LOCATION. You can get there by driving 4 miles and 45 minutes to Wrightsville Beach. I didn't paddle out. I charged. The muscles and tendons could have been separated from my shoulder but I was going to win this round. You see, YOU are only better than me because of your time in the water. And let me just add, I've have never paddled out into a crowd. I don't even like entering a room full of people so there's no way I'm going to prefer sitting in a lineup as opposed to enjoying the serenity of silence.

Today, I made the drops. I paddled. I stood up. I rode it. You could have called me "2partsdiarrhea" and I probably wouldn't have noticed...since I was stealing your waves.

Today, my shoulders are burning and I have sand where I shouldn't but my surfboard and I now have a relationship.

Today, my friends, I SURFED!

[boco rio]

Welcome to the jungle and congratulations.

It was like this when I started back in the day.



Who has the right of way???

[MrJoe]

Welcome to the jungle and congratulations.

It was like this when I started back in the day.



Who has the right of way???

Reminds me of Croyde today

[Bub]

Welcome to the jungle and congratulations.

It was like this when I started back in the day.



Who has the right of way???

Reminds me of Croyde today

If I had to deal with that mess, I'd never surf. That can't be any fun and looks like a fight waiting to happen. Well, I take that back...if all of those guys were close friends (like a highschool reunion or such) and a tight knit of pals and they had a keg of beer on the beach, you could have some fun with that mess. Quality surfing is not going to happen in those conditions though.

[essex sucks]

no thats not that bad know u take the next wave as the mass have gone and u will have your own wave

[Otter]

Sheet, I only count 16 guys going for that wave... that's not to bad for a summer in SoCal!

[Manaiakalani-Mosquito]

Welcome to the jungle and congratulations.

It was like this when I started back in the day.



Who has the right of way???

Parrrtttyyy wavvveeee!
=)

[RUSS-D]

Welcome to the jungle and congratulations.

It was like this when I started back in the day.



Who has the right of way???

Parrrtttyyy wavvveeee!
=)

puff puff pas, don't screw up the rotation.