What inspired you to start surfing?

[Otter]

The thrill of victory, the agony of defeat...

[justloafing]

The thrill of victory, the agony of defeat...

Ha.................When I went over the falls that one time I felt like the skier that fell off the side of the jump at the beginning of Wide World Of Sports.

Not to mention I ended up in the impact zone with 3 waves slamming me on top of the head after the trip over the falls. I could have used a barrel going over those falls.

[Otter]

Over the falls... been a long time, but I've been there, done that!

[nsidla]

I've always loved the ocean, always body-surfed until I could afford my own surfboard. Something about being out there waiting to catch a piece of one of the most powerful things on earth and getting to ride it like when indians used to ride wild horses. It's just you and the ocean, that's all it is for me, out there life seems like it's real for me. That's why I wanted to learn how to surf. It's real and and takes you in, it's what allows you to live freely. Out there you're free, you and the ocean, that's what it's all about for me anyways.

[nsidla]

The thrill of victory, the agony of defeat...

and yeah, that too, well put otter, awesome quote dude

[Surferforlife]

i must admit though i am ashamed.... a bit embarassed... i started surfing because it looked so dam cool not for the soull... but later once i started after a few weeks i had to do it to get rid of my problems and i was addicted to it it was my passion screw what it looks like it was just me and the ocean

[thaya]

i suppose it's cuz i've always loved being in water (even though I couldn't swim for years ) and hearing the sound of the ocean. the beach is beautiful and relaxing and I like the non materialistic/ no cares in the world/ live for the moment lifestyle. I'm still working on trying to remain calm and stress free all the time though... it's difficult in my job

[Tyrcian]

well my ex girlfriend came from south africa and she loved surfing. She really got me hooked on it before I even started it, it was just one of those things that really pulls you in and touches you. I started learning because I wanted to take her surfing for her birthday and that I could join in too, but sadly we broke up and I never got that chance, but I got surfing instead which is great:D

and that scat comment was genius:P

[MrJoe]

I'd always wanted to try it; and one day I was invited along with two friends, hook, line and sinker

[Surfing-Innovation]

Always thought it looked fun and stuff - but never tried it in my 'early years' as I was always doing other stuff (sports - pretty much 'you name it, I've played it' thing).

Had a holiday in Cornwall about 7 or 8 years ago - saw some kids (and 'not kids') playing on cheapo boogie boards - had a couple of goes and thought it was fun. Went back to Cornwall the following year and bought myself a sponge to play on for the holiday.

A few months later, got invited to Devon by some VW mates. Someone lent me their NSP - that was it....

It's not that romantic or owt (to be honest, I was always scared of large bodies of water, and still am to a lesser extent) but there is a certain 'something' when you're sat out on an empty break at the crack of dawn just waiting for a wave............

[boco rio]

For me it was a girl... Yours?

That is the opposite of my reason. It all started back in the 70's when I went on the old Mission Bay roller coaster and loved the rush of adrenalin. The next step was surfing and going out without regard for life or limb. I found friends that were adrenalin addicts too and we pushed the limits even farther than I would have dared by myself. It was a crazy wonderful time and it's a miracle I survived it.

[coldkook]

This is a great subject, so many different reason.

I come from a skating background and later had freinds that had been surfing who recomemnded it. It was always something I wanted to try but the fact I couldn't swim and lived nowhere near the coast was holding me back a bit
Then about 5 years ago I made a decision to take a year round Aus where I finally decided to confront my fear of the water and learn to swim, I can still remember that first length of the 25m pool, it was like completing a marathon
After a few months traveling I arrived a Byron Bay and had my first go at surfing, a huge 9-10ft foam board on ancle high slop and it was brilliant

I've always enjoyed being by the sea, just sitting and watching the waves but now it's a full on addiction. I can't go down a coastal road without constantly looking out to sea, I'm obsessed with the weather and if there's anything on tv by the coast I end up looking past the action at the waves!

Just sitting out there on a clean swell as the sun goes down is kind of soul repairing and the buzz of catching a good wave makes me til my face aches!

There's also the joy of getting dressed head to toe in rubber and pissing yourself on the cold days

[eastcoastsurfshop]

When I was a young kid My parents packed me off to stay with a French family on the West Coast of France. All the kids in the fmaily surfed so I went with them a couple of times. When I got home I was hooked and very luckily for me, the house my parents owned is only 100m from the beach. Et, Voila!

[Rocky789]

Ive always used the outdoors as my outlet for all my frustrations and as the one place where I can go and just have to obey only one rule which is nature and be happy with the simplicity yet grandeur of it all. And because Im moving from virginia to florida I can no longer go hiking/rock climbing and with the beach only 12 minutes from my dorm I picked surfing to take its place.

[libby]

My first few years were spent living in Berkshire, a fair way from the sea, even at 5-6 years old i remember how claustraphobic it felt to be stuck on land in the heat of the summer, my gran lived in Bridlington and trips to stay with her by the sea were always amazing. We moved to rural Northumberland when i was 6, about a mile of farmland from the beach and i started spending every spare minute on the beach, whether it was rockpooling with my big bro or riding my horses bareback down to the beach, and taking them swimming in the sea. As i got older i'd spend weekends walking along the miles of coastal paths around where i lived but i began to get bored. I guess with more people taking up surfing north east breaks are beginning to be found and in 2001-2002 I saw surfers in the flesh at my local beach for the first time. It breaks rarely so its not a regular thing, but for the first time it occured to me that surfing was possible in my part of the world. Knowing nothing about it, i bought a lid and a wetsuit and dragged my best friend Philippa out with me, and instantly started having fun. At uni I joined the surf club, but it wasnt till the second year that i had a chance to go out properly, one surf trip to Wales, and that was it, i was hooked. I bought my own board, but soon after moved to NZ so bought another board there!

I havent made it a big enough priority in my life yet, i've only been out a couple of times this year, but i'm hoping that by working hard now at my career i'll be in a position to live and work by the beach for the rest of my life.

Oooops, bit of an essay. Apologies

[Milo]

Mid life crises.

[Surfdoc]

My dad has been surfing since 1964. It was natural for me to go to the beach with him starting pretty early.

[Stone Fox]

Years ago a guy I worked with was organising a surf weekend, I went along just for the weekend at the beach - I love camping. Crap surf but had fun anyway, got really drunk, played beach volleyball.

After I got back I found that it was more the time in the water I was remembering fondly so when a couple of weeks later he said he was organising another trip for workmates I jumped at the chance. The surf was brilliant, I got on really well with the board he lent me and I've been hooked ever since. Haven't stopped thinking about it or dreaming about surf in 4 years.

[Hadow]

My story is similair to Libby's. Moved from Buckinghamshire to the coast. Spent years hiking it, and climbing. Started doing alot of swimming and thought that surfing would be a good way to keep fit (alternative training) for it. I found I picked it up quick and now its all I want to do!