Lurked here for a short time, decided to join..I am surfing again after about a 17 year hiatus. I just bought a used 7'6" NSP and went out to see if I could at least pop up. I looked and felt like a total retard...flailed everywhere. It will take a while for me to get back to the "feel" even with a longer board I feel totally frustrated and inept. I am not quiting.
I have an SUV (Jeep Grand Cherokee), I wear a suit most of the time..I am not a enviro freak, but do not want to contribute to the deliquency of the shoreline either.
I say dude everyday of my life.
I like some country music (Rascal Flatts, K. Chesney, K. Urban) I also listen to my generational rock (Van Halen, AC/DC, G&R, Aerosmith).
I play guitar(s) Taylors to be exact.
I hate t.v., I do not trust people who say they are doing something for the best of the nation, which usually means they are making decisions that belong to me.
I started surfing again when some skater punks that live down the street ask me to give them a ride to the beach to go surf, they threw their boards in to the back of of my Jeep window and I'm like "hey be careful, you'll scratch the rear..blah, blah, I'm an old fart to them.
I watched them for about an hour and said..bump this, I'm going surfing again. I went down bought me a new pair of Billabongs. A day later I bought a used board at my local surf shop..2 days later there were decent 3 footers aloof and I went to a secluded spot to make my embarrassing debut..I'm pissed but I will keep popping up until it sticks.
Don't know if the surf language has changed all that much...but I feel great about my new spiritual awakening.

I used to love to go on morning patrol or skip school to go after the breaks.
There is absolutely nothing compared to the silence of daily life contrasted to the rolling of the waves...nothing.