Never developed a taste for coffee, Starbucks or otherwise...
6'4", 230lbs, blonde - typical surfer physique
My life revolves around surfing. When I can get out next, where I'll be going next. Never had the scratch to surf exotic locations, but I've been pretty much on every public beach between K54 (Baja California) and North Santa Barbara County (Jalama). Started surfing at age 12, am now 51, 52 07.07.07. My big birthday plans are to be in the water at San Onofre on the 7th of July, at 07:07 and 07 seconds. I don't personally go for the trendy things about surfing, like whose the latest hot personality, what the latest trend in board design is, where to place fins, etc. I just surf my longboard and have a good time.
I am married for 23 years, have a 20 yr old daughter whose graduating college this June 15.
I live an hours drive from my nearest break. When I do dawn patrol I am up at 4:30 a.m. and arrive at the beach by 6:00a.m.
I don't care much for shell jewelry or carp like that. I don't use the terms "dude" or "gnarly" any more, but did in High School. Now my serious surf buds are my Brahs. I have a tribe of 6 surfers that always surf and chill together. The Surf Nazis go for one of us, they get all 6 in return. I ride a 10' high performance longboard, pintail single fin.
I've admired surfers and have wanted to surf since I was 6. Was standing at an ice cream stand with my family and across the street in Redondo Beach, CA. was a young man and a beautiful girlfriend. He was rinsing (?) off his surfboard and they were talking and laughing. I decided then and there what I wanted to do with my life. Be a surf bum. Unfortunately, my ambitions got the better of my desires (I liked eating and having a roof over my head, besides the roof of my old van) and have held down a job for most of my adult life. I've been fairly successful, but I owe that to a debilitating accident which left me with a compound fracture of my femur, broken tibia, fibula, radius and ulna. No, I am not an orthopedic surgeon. The bone breakage stripped me of 15 years of surfing as I was advised against doing so by my Dr's. None the less, 7 years ago I decided that I had to get wet and I've been surfing every opportunity since. I've been busted at Camp Pendleton by Marine Corps MP's for surfing on camp property. I've never entered a contest until last month, when a friend of mine entered me in a Vintage Longboard competition at San O. It was lots of fun, but I'm more of a soul surfer than a competitor. That's my story, more than you wanted to know I bet...
so i guess i look a surfy dude at times but other than that ..im a rock-hip-hop-DnB-Ragga junky that has spent too much time in the company of too many badbwoyz for various reasons over the years 
... and most of my character reflects that , most of the time ! .
