
tried to sit on the board, took a while to find the sweet spot as the nose kept sinking and it shot out from under me backwards a few times

Paddled for a wave and caught it first time

got owned again
a few white waters later I seem to have gotten the hang of sinking the front of the board and kneeling on the tailpaid to try and sink the tail - this bit needs work tho i could get outback easily enough.
Had an ace time just practising catching waves and duckdiving, tried to stand up one or twice but it was way too wobbly so will sav that for next time

About 2 hours later I dragged myself out having just about knackered my arms, was having trouble even lifting them out of the water!
stoked