big waves

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Postby Otter » Wed Dec 20, 2006 12:35 am

isaluteyou wrote:intresting technique otter. How does it fair in those winter swell beach breaks :? Not that i'll ever ride a 10ft board well not it would take some convincing :lol:


Actually, works well in any size wave, up to about 25' faces that I've been in. I know it doesn't sound like the most appropriate method, but after 38 years of surfing I've learned it works very well for me. Sure, I lose a little time having to remount and start gaining up speed again, but I generally only paddle out once, after I'm outside, I tend to stay on the outside, not riding all the way into the shorebreak. It also gives me an opportunity to judge the juice in the wave, power wave, heavy juice, weak wave, less juice. Last but not least, I get wet. Nothing like a power wave wrapping around you while trying to get out to accustom you to the water temp. I'm slow at getting out, I like to observe the conditions of the break I'm at, and it helps me identify potential difficulties and avoid them as well.

So that's the story about locking your arms. If you ever decide to expand your horizons and try a Longboard, I think you will enjoy. There seems to me that there is alot of animosity among some Shortboarders toward Longboarders. I can understand why, Longboarders getting the better waves from the outside. But hey, it's a choice we make. So don't get gnashed at Longboarders because they get more waves sooner, it's your choice as well.

Keep the stoke Brah!
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Postby isaluteyou » Wed Dec 20, 2006 12:41 am

:roll: Got nothing against longboarders :D most the poeple i surf with use longboards. Its just not my cup of tea. Maybe in 10 years or so i might get into it :lol: But for now i'll stick with my toothpick.

I'm slow at getting out, I like to observe the conditions of the break I'm at, and it helps me identify potential difficulties and avoid them as well.


Thats a very good tip. See so many just run in and go all out only to be hit by a duster set :lol:
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Postby Otter » Wed Dec 20, 2006 1:05 am

Yes, I've ridden Longboards and Shortboards, both a great! It's always a good idea to do a thorough check on whatever break you are going out at, whether it's your fav spot, or seldom visited.

Keep the stoke Brah! :D
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