what is surfing about?

[mostyn]

what does surfing mean to me . Well, its about being in water, wheather I`m being beaten to a pulp, freezing bits off, or just floating on a mill pond, doesn`t mater. I know that when I catch a wave, It`s me on it, I`m not watching some one else do it. Its up to me what I make of it, good or bad, doesn`t matter. I can be in for five minutes, or 4 hours, and I know I`ll have the same silly grin on my face. I wouldn`t say I`m addicted, as I live to far away to surf every weekend ( money wise ) , but that doesn`t mean I`m not stoked to think, not long now, not long. I think the best thing though, is, I`m with my friends, and I know that even when I`ve been beaten up by a wave, I come up and look around and can see five or so friends and strangers with the same look of proper happiness on their faces. In my eyes , you can`t buy that. Thanks.

P.S. finally got a board, 9.4 custard point. learning on your own board, fantastic !

[Bub]

Surfin's not just a sport, its a way of life, a hobby. Its about looking at the wave and saying "Hey bud, lets party"!

signed Jeff Spiccoli

Sorry guys, I couldn't resist this one!

[CutBack]

Everything...or just about.
Surfing good waves off shore on some deserted reef is just about the best thing anyone could do.
IT'S ALL GOOD. Physically, mentally and best off all it's highly creative.
It challenges our judgement and it teaches us to handle fear.
To me, there is no better feeling than rolling up my leg rope as as I come out of the water after a really good session.
Or with the sun setting behind me as I head back to the Marina in my small boat after a day's surfing off shore.
The Ocean teaches us to simply let it happen.
Best way to surf is to read the wave. Don't "try".
Manouvers will fall into place if you LET them.

Mother Ocean ... she loves us all.

Happy New Year to all !!

[Stone Fox]

I You HAVE to be hooked to paddle for 2hrs for just 20secs of actual surfing!

It takes you two hours to paddle out past the break?! Do you smoke?

It was wierd for me, I started surfing in summer 2004 when a mate dragged me along. At first I thought I was doing it for the camping the fresh air, the partying etc, although I knew I really loved the surfing.

I moved to Mallorca for a year (where there's NO surf) and I was really busy, life was a mess and I found myself sleeping on the beach for about a week.

Anyway, after I got back to the UK and got myself settled I started having this re-occuring dream which turned into a day dream - which got stronger and stronger;-

In the dream I'm sat on my rented board out past the break at Saunton, it's late september '04 - the weekend after that hurricane trashed the Caribbean and the waves are bigger than ANYTHING I've surfed all summer. I'm physically exhausted, my shoulders are burning from the paddle and the baking hot sunshine from the orange september sun in seeping through my wetsuit as I sit there, warming and softening my muscles as the almost hypnotic rythm of the waves lifts me up and drops me. I know that in a minute I'm going to get the most amazing thrill ride but for the moment I'm content, balancing, sat there with the smell of fresh salt air in my nose, the sunlight warming me, the anticipation of the ride. As Thaya so excellently put it, I feel kind of at one with nature, and for once I feel strangely alive.

In real life I paddled for the next wave, and I put up a photo of me catching it in this forum ages ago. In the dream I just sit there, anticipating the wave, looking at the smiles of all the chilled out, happy people round me, also sitting on their boards.

It's got to be one of the most beautiful moments of my life.

And over a year after it happened, I started dreaming about it - which is when I joined this forum about a year ago because I needed to talk about the dream, and learn a bit more about realising it again.