what is surfing about?

[Bewilderbeast]

I think it's about being at one with nature, being reminded of how amazing it is to be alive, feeling part of the universe

Right on Thaya!

I don't think I could have put it any better myself.
Nothing else I have ever been involved with brings you closer to Mother Nature, your friends you are out with and most of all.....yourself!

[FishKid Wales]

I reckon the hooking point for me is that when you out there doing it theirs absolutley no room to think about anything 'real' so now matter how crap my day has been once im in all my problems are left on the beach + combine that with a massive rush!

[scuba steve]

How come some people get hooked and some just like surfing?

Do you think its the type of person you are because I know some people that like surfing but arent addicted like me. They just enjoy it as they do football, or any oter sport.
I definately see it as more than a sport.

Why I'm addicted to it, I dont know, mixture of things I guess.

Surfing to me is like an intense happiness.

[bluesnowcone]

Do you think its the type of person you are because I know some people that like surfing but arent addicted like me. They just enjoy it as they do football, or any oter sport.

i dont know how they can think of it like another sport, there weird, its so much more, its a life stlye

[isaluteyou]

its deffo a lifestyle thing. Non surfers will never understand

[scuba steve]

Do you think its the type of person you are because I know some people that like surfing but arent addicted like me. They just enjoy it as they do football, or any oter sport.

i dont know how they can think of it like another sport, there weird, its so much more, its a life stlye

Thats quite funny, they're not weird they're pretty normal they just dont feel the effects of surfing as strongly. They did think it was fun though.
Do you think everyone that goes surfing for the first time gets hooked, no. Thats my point, I was wonderin why?

[bluesnowcone]

Do you think its the type of person you are because I know some people that like surfing but arent addicted like me. They just enjoy it as they do football, or any oter sport.

i dont know how they can think of it like another sport, there weird, its so much more, its a life stlye

Thats quite funny, they're not weird they're pretty normal they just dont feel the effects of surfing as strongly. They did think it was fun though.
Do you think everyone that goes surfing for the first time gets hooked, no. Thats my point, I was wonderin why?

now i understand, well i wasnt hooked on surfing until i caught my first stand up ride, soon as i got good at it i fell in love, i recon it takes time to realise how amazing and spititual it all is

[FormosanSurfer]

For me surfing is almost a spiritual event. I am not a very religious person, but when I am out there and the waves are rolling in - I get a real feel for the power of the universe. It's also about being out there with my friends (who now live and surf far far away ) It's about going with the power of the ocean - finding that sweet spot and just riding the energy provided. Its about getting a stoked when a storm is coming through. Its about the fear of a big set rolling in and the feeling of accomplishment when you make that drop. I have done a lot of sports in my life and none of them compare to surfing.

Now I really need to finish this damned medschool crap and move back to the beach

[gdude335]

adrenaline
accomplishment
relief
calm
fear
joy
friends
thats it for me

adrenaline when your going down a big wave or paddling fast to not get pummeled
accomplishment when you ride a wave better than before, do a new trick.
relief when you barely pass the wave and no next one is there to squash you.
calm in beetween sets
fear see adrenaline
joy once riding the wave
and i always surf with friends

[JfetZ]

its the only thing that makes me happy

[scuba steve]

its the only thing that makes me happy

Really?

[jethrodog]

its the only thing that makes me happy

No offence dude, but if that is the only thing that makes you happy, you need to get out more.

Some people just seem to get hit with the surfing bug harder than others. I think these are the people who like the lifestyle aspects of surfing and enjoy everything to do with surfing and trying to implement it into their lives. Just like some people I know who are like that about football (soccer for all us n.americans). All they think and talk about is footie. I often wonder why they don't get a life outside of footie, then realize that sometimes that is me with surfing. And I think it is alright to submerse yourself into your prefered "sport" lifestyle, as long as it doesn't cause problems with other important things, such as your spouse, kids, dog, way of procuring funds to live, etc.

[Hadow]

Some people have more addictive personalities than others. I can get generally pissed off when there is no surf for a reasonable amount of time and i couldnt care less about the 'life style/image' or any of that surf cheese.
But yes it would be nice to find more happiness in other aspects of life when we are not in the water I think every1 would agree.

[Johno]

Surfing gets me in trouble with me wife a lot thou. I completely loose track of time when I'm in the water.

Snap !!! every time i have been out my X girlfreind would sit on the beach, 4 hours later what felt like 10 minutes I go to see if she was ok with a big smill on my face totaly relaxed she'd shout at me thats why she got the boot.

Surfing has changed my life, its always in my thoughts and I'm even saving up now for a camper van now

[essex sucks]

Surfing has changed my life, its always in my thoughts and I'm even saving up now for a camper van now

i am doing the same

[surferdude_scarborough]

surfing is a challenge, a way to push your limits, to get to know yourself, a way to get away from it all.

its also a hell of a lot of fun and you can make a ****load of money if ur good enough

[Justwan Naride]

I don't understand how one can surf but not be "hooked", I mean the first steps of learning are so hard that if you're not addicted you'll probably give up! You HAVE to be hooked to paddle for 2hrs for just 20secs of actual surfing!
I guess it also depends on conditions, a not-so-stoked person may get away with it if conditions are begginner friendly or very constant.

I was hooked before I even started, I love the sea, I always wanted to surf. Used to bodyboard as a teenager and wanted to "upgrade" to stand up surfing but didn't do it 'till now because no one surfs where I live. Just recently I bought myself a funboard and enjoy that odd 5 second ride or just eating sh*t!

Now, I hope my rides will get longer and better, but it's not only about the ride, it's about being out there trying to use what the sea is offering you. The images alone that you see from surfboard are incredible - a breaking wave leaving all that spray behind, your mate riding, everything!
I also enjoy the fact that it's not competitive - you're out just for yourself having fun.
And the feeling after the surf (I mean beating)...just incredible!

1st post by the way.

[Jimi]

I think there are a few different types of people who surf, and all of them get something different out of it. Adrenaline junkies get satisfaction from the rush of catching a wave that is too huge to paddle into (a bit like sky diving), while shortboarders get a rush from the awesome tricks they can pull off (like skaters or snowboarders), while others, like me, just love the feeling of catching the odd wave and getting out in the elements away from the city where I work.

Whether you're hooked or not comes down to how much you want that feeling.

I'm hooked on surfing because of the rush of catching a wave (doesn't need to be a big one), and the sensation of speed and control over the elements. I also go sailing and windsurfing and am hooked on the same feeling. If the wind is up and the surf isn't, then I get the same rush by getting a small boat to do 20mph just by wind power.

[rich r]

Y'know.. when I'm surfing consistently, things don't bother me as much.

And if they do, a good session will usually just wipe it away.

But why do I do it? Because it just feels right.

[Broosta]

Surfing gets me in trouble with me wife a lot thou. I completely loose track of time when I'm in the water.

Snap !!! every time i have been out my X girlfreind would sit on the beach, 4 hours later what felt like 10 minutes I go to see if she was ok with a big smill on my face totaly relaxed she'd shout at me thats why she got the boot.

Been there before too!

I can see why some people don't get hooked - like if they try surfing for the image and the conditions suck for learning and its cold and all that sort of stuff. At the moment here its flat, cold, just generally unpleasent going anywhere near the beach, and even I'm questioning the sense in blowing £200 on a new wetty - but I know how it goes, I know that even though it still won't look nice to start with, sooner or later the swell will pick up and the wind will drop and the sky will clear and I'll go surfing again and will be 're-baptised' into surfing heaven again !