what is surfing about?

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what is surfing about?

Postby bluesnowcone » Thu Dec 14, 2006 6:50 pm

the ultimate ride

the adrenalin of riding a big wave

big turns and getting loads of spray

earning a living

is it spiritual

is it just another sport

what do you lot think cas i have no idea, it might be spiritual when you get a nice wave your just in a zone and nothing els matters, but that might just be me
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Postby Euan » Thu Dec 14, 2006 6:58 pm

I was talking to a person at college and the asked why a freeze my butt off for a afew seconds of riding.

I said because it was fun but i dont know why we really do it.
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Postby bluesnowcone » Thu Dec 14, 2006 7:00 pm

none of us know why, but something brings us all back for more
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Postby Sar » Thu Dec 14, 2006 7:04 pm

i think its like meditation...loads of people say...you may have loads of problems but once you're in the water you just forget about them and think about the next wave.
Thats what I find, im a stresser and worrier etc etc but I dont seem to get that when Im trying to surf. Just talking about it makes me forget all the other crap.
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Postby bluesnowcone » Thu Dec 14, 2006 7:06 pm

thats like me, you just get into a zone and dont realy think about anything, or if you do think about things for me it all becomes much easyer
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Postby PapaW » Thu Dec 14, 2006 7:09 pm

Only thing that balances me out...
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Postby LikeAGromit » Thu Dec 14, 2006 7:26 pm

No real idea what surfing's 'about'. The question has a similar nature to "what's the deal with lungs?". I surf because it's a great way to get exercise in the sun and is just about the most fun you can have by yourself.
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Postby bluesnowcone » Thu Dec 14, 2006 7:28 pm

:lol:
Last edited by bluesnowcone on Thu Dec 14, 2006 7:30 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby ^*^BATMAN^*^ » Thu Dec 14, 2006 7:29 pm

The whole it relaxes the hell out of me is just a bennifit. I can honestly say I enjoy it all the time(well except for when you fall into rocks and crap)
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Postby Old Guys Rule » Thu Dec 14, 2006 7:39 pm

I think Kitey nailed it. I do a lot of other sports Moto Cross, Skiing, Jet Skiing, Mountain biking, sky diving ect. None of them relax me. I live a very stressful live, with many who count on me for the well being. I call surfing sessions Salt Water Therepy. I never have conversations in the water about the tough things I deal with. It is all about how good life is. I love the rush of riding the perfect wave, but when all is said and done it gets to the spiritual side for me.

Great thread.
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Postby bluesnowcone » Thu Dec 14, 2006 8:06 pm

Old Guys Rule wrote:...Great thread.


cheers, it just came to me when i was surfing the other day and i thought id put it on here, see what people say
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surf!

Postby eco » Thu Dec 14, 2006 9:08 pm

Its pure passion! its the only thing that holds me up while Im 450km far from the sea, just the reamains from my last waves,i havent found anything similar.
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Postby dondiemand » Thu Dec 14, 2006 10:31 pm

to me it's more of spiritual..everytime i go out, i think of God's creation..and also, i think about a cold bottle of beer :D
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Postby isaluteyou » Fri Dec 15, 2006 12:02 am

keeps me sane :lol:
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Postby WooD » Fri Dec 15, 2006 6:58 am

More spiritual than anything. I could care less about cut backs, and airs. Its all about the glide for me. Plus I just love the ocean. I've paddled my 10 footer out many days when the ocean was flat as a lake, just to be out.

Surfing gets me in trouble with me wife a lot thou. I completely loose track of time when I'm in the water.
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Postby pault » Fri Dec 15, 2006 8:40 am

Since I work in the borders of scotland its all about

FREEEEEEDOOOOM :D

Guess its the spiritual side, all thoughts wash away when in the sea. I love the smell, the sounds everything.

Also I get really competitive, so it really gets rid of all that energy.
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Postby sal » Fri Dec 15, 2006 9:00 am

Sar wrote:i think its like meditation...loads of people say...you may have loads of problems but once you're in the water you just forget about them and think about the next wave.
Thats what I find, im a stresser and worrier etc etc but I dont seem to get that when Im trying to surf. Just talking about it makes me forget all the other crap.


Spot on! :lol: :lol: :lol:
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Postby northswell » Fri Dec 15, 2006 11:12 am

Its about the adrenalin and the stoke, the rush you get when you kick out of a wave.

Its also about nature and been in touch with it and being able to appreciate the power and beauty of it.

The sea is a place you can enjoy with your friends and have a real good time, but its a place you can go out solo and find some peace and solitude that can transport you to another place.
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Postby thaya » Fri Dec 15, 2006 12:15 pm

I think it's about being at one with nature, being reminded of how amazing it is to be alive, feeling part of the universe, having fun, forgetting your troubles, relaxing and enjoying the moment. It cheers me up, relieves me of any stress, makes me feel really good and it's a great way of keeping fit!
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Postby bluesnowcone » Fri Dec 15, 2006 12:32 pm

once i was surfing and it was 2-4ft and messy no other surfers just bodyboarders on the inside, the winds were strong and it was hard work, but then it all stopped no wind and then it chucked it down, i couldnt see the beach, it was amazing, i felt so alone yet so alive, it was like this for about a minuet then it stopped raining and the wind picked up again, but that minuet was amazing
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