First Surfing Experience

[cactus]

OK I bought my first board 2 days ago, it was used 6'8" 18 7/8" 2 7/8" good condition used custom shortboard for $165, which I thought was a great deal. Im 5'8 tall around 155lbs, so I guess the board was decent enough size to learn on. So today I went for my first ever surf session, the conditions wasn't that good for learning I thought,i t was low tide and waves were 2-4ft high. I went and paddle and to my surprise I was doing pretty good, I was moving forward and not falling off the board, couldn't duck dive though, ill work on that next time. So I got passed the breaking point and just laying there waiting for the right wave. I surprised myself again because I could actually stand on the board atleast 1 out of 3 tries, the problem is my timing. Its either I would stand and just sink and go nowhere and I think when i pop up Im might be standing really close to the nose since I keep on sinking or I would try to pop up late and get tumbled and dry by the wave. I almost broke my neck a couple of times too, since it was low tide it breaks on really shallow water, it was scary. I couldn't practice in the whitewash either because the water was too shallow and my fins might hit the sand and I probably wont go anywhere either. Maybe I should check surfline for conditions next time before I go. Overall, it was a pretty good experice, I know what to expect the second time around and work on getting better. My arms are kinda sore, Its a good workout though. I wish I have surfer friends to paddle with, it would make learning twice as fun. So untill next time...

[MyanRellick]

I just started get more serious about surfing recently, too.
Congrats on getting up on your feet. It takes alot of patience.

[WooD]

the conditions wasn't that good for learning I thought,i t was low tide and waves were 2-4ft high.

I wish 2 to 4 foot wasn't that good around here. Around here people will call off work for 4 foot waves.

[Driftingalong]

Sounds like you did pretty well for your first time out...

Just keep getting out there and you'll work out the timing issues soon enough.

[cactus]

I wish I can go everyday, but its $20 worth of gas everytime I go. Ill try to go atleast ones or twice a week. I envy the people who live by the beach

[Driftingalong]

Were are you?

[cactus]

I live in the desert valley of Socal

[jethrodog]

I'd love to be able to go once or twice a week, even at $20 a pop. I'm stoked that i get to go once every 2 months, and I won't mention what airfare costs.

I guess it's all in the perspective