by cj » Tue Sep 26, 2006 1:13 am
Surf in the great lakes.
They are huge lakes, basically freshwater seas.
During the fall, the waves consitantly reach well over 8', Sometimes the buoy reports in excess of 15', and on occasion even larger, they say that the Edmund Fince Gerald may have sank between two forty foot waves (it is hard to believe, but these lakes do have the capability of producing waves of that height (well at least Lake Superior does, I don't think Lake Michigan could ever really kick up past 20 feet)
But, the a-typical wave height is going to be 6-8 foot.
The waves do break with faces that are 8' and sometimes bigger.
During the winter a lot of surfers go out in below freezing temperatures wearing 7 mm wetsuits and surf the icy water too, which is a great time to catch larger waves, simply because the air is so cold compared to the water.
A typical early fall day here is going to be 2-4', sometimes 4-6', but then around this time of the year it starts building up, and gets bigger and bigger and more frequent.
The fall is the main surf season around here, because of the nice water temps, and the better surfing.
I know I know, you are probably thinking, yea but they are all mushy and blown out... Not true at all.
You have to catch the waves breaking when the wind is at just the right angle (so usually a good session last a few hours, before the wind changes and blows them out, but sometimes it can go all day)
And we surf in natural breaks, and by piers where the sand has made the waves very well formed, ocean quality, and sometimes nice, barreling, and peeling.
Localism doesn't exist here at all, it is a more the marrier attitude, I have had complete strangers come up to me, introduce themselves and offer for me to crash on thier couch so I can catch the morning session.
I have never heard of anyone being a prick in a line up here.
During the Summer you can forget about surfing, I caught a 2' wave in July, that was my summer of surfing here, it is really a fall and winter sport here.
The waves are closer together in the Lakes than in the ocean, sometimes a wave interval on a fully matured swell is only about 6 seconds, so if you want to surf here in the larger waves you have to be one hell of a paddler.
The lakes are fresh water, so they are less buoyant than the ocean too.
You have to be touch to surf the better waves here, that is for sure, short wave intervals, less buoyancy, usually harsher weather conditions (cold), and not a lot of people who live here know that people actually surf the great lakes, so you get a lot of funny looks when you are filling up your tank at the gas station with surfboards strapped to the top of your roof, especially when it is snowing out.
There was a short clip in the movie Step Into Liquid with great lakes surfing on it, but they came out on a day when it was like 2' mush, and basically made everyone here look like a bunch of rednecks.
There is another movie that was made recently by a local guy, and he made a documentary type movie all about great lakes surfing, and they had pro surfers in it, it depicted the lakes a lot better than the short half ass clip that was in Step Into Liquid, his movie is called UNSALTED. It is a pretty good movie, it shows lake surfing for exactly what it is.
The lakes even have a Tidal Wave, yup a real Tidal Wave can happen on the great lakes.
What happens is a large mass of low pressure slams down into the lakes and causes a kind of 'splash effect' like if you hit your hand against the water in the bathtub, anyway, a couple years ago this guy caught it all on video when one happened, and you can watch the time lapse where the lakes dry up and expose the sea bed for a ways out, and then the water all came rushing back in. They call it a Seeche.
If you look up Chicago Tidal Wave on the internet, you will find a news article about one a long time ago that killed 11 people.
Most people who live around here don't know about those either, most people stay away from the great lakes when they are doing funny things, Lots and lots of shipwrecks out there.
And yea, believe it or not, there are surf shops here, there are more and more places selling surfboards.