Just thought I'd post and say hello to all, I have just registered but been entertained by your stories over the last few months since properly taking up surfing and found the lessons part quite helpful too! Especially when it comes to wave etiquette etc....
I'm Located in Devon, (although unfortunately going back up north for uni, just as this super-swell has arrived!!) (WHERE DO ALL YOU NORTHERNERS GO FOR KICKS? Is there anywhere near North Wales to get out too?) I have been on the odd trip to the coasts with mates over the years, drowning with their spare boards but this summer (broke up from uni early May) I have really got in to my surfing!!
Started off renting foam boards and longer boards in May and took to it really well and I am absolutely loving it, its all I think about whatever the weather and am constantly checking the reports and planning my next mission to where it seems to be good!
I have managed to get out about 3 or 4 times a week and am enjoying progressing and looking back at the beginning when I was wiping out EVERY WAVE, haha!
Mainly hiring out bics over summer and then found a lovely board that I started renting which was around 7' which really helped me and felt it was time to buy a 2nd hand 6'7 board - a Q-stix board which was a lot harder but I got quite a few nice waves with.... but unfortunately out at Putts last weekend a younger surfer (around 16, 17) who kept continually trying to get out behind the white (he was so keen) but kept getting wiped out would only go for the waves that I would go for, so I just let him have one after another, and kept moving down beach, (I didnt want to crash into him) until I really was cheesed off so I went in for the next one anyway to find him cut across me... but he wiped totally out so I could only see his board as I was about to catch it... then suddenly I saw him surface and gasp for breath... my board was about to drill straight into his head so I dived forward to divert the nose away from him and I cracked it and snapped my board nose clean off....
!!! (must have looked hilarious to people on the beach!!)
So anyway I'm kind of looking to buy another cheapy 2nd hand board or maybe a new board to replace my other... will keep my eye on ebay! I might need some advice with shaping my next board up as i'm not as clued up as you guys and certainly no Pro,
! I know to keep volume but its just a case of finding the right priced board which is suitable for me... Im 20, 6 foot, 11.5 stone, beginner- intermediate-ish.... No problem getting behind waves now and catching...still wiping out of course... but am beginning to drop into bigger waves and sorting my balancing out & beginning to turn and control more.
Wow this is getting as long as one of my uni essays now so I'm off...! Hope to see a few of you around devon & Cornwall in the water during the holidays and well forecasted weekends! My main places to go are Constantine; Harlyn: treyarnon etc.... Or occasionally Bude or Widemouth if I don't fancy the hike quite far down the coast. If I stay in Devon then definitely head for Croyde/ Saunton / Putts area so cover some breaks and hope to see you all out there (I'm the one with the sinking noseless board)
Cheers
