My Scariest Surf to date(Funny Story)

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My Scariest Surf to date(Funny Story)

Postby Patrick__69 » Tue Sep 05, 2006 8:00 am

This is a Story I put on my local forum about a month ago. Since this moment I will be addicted forever. :D No Lies I swear to god this happened.





My friend and I decided to go out and surf for the weekend and we had a great time. We both live in Canada and He had done a bunch of surfing in Hawaii and I had gone about 20 sessions with my dad coming up for the week every summer usually and it is one of my favorite things to do. I have been renting Long boards and we both got two 7'6 softops and went out the first day to Nox Bay July.23rd. We had no luck getting out back but we had a good time. I came really close a few times but just got hammered. (6-8 feet at the buoy. The next day we were really determined to do it but it still was not going happen so we walked from Nox Bay to Lesterman Beach through this cool path I found since the tide was out. Lestermans was fun and were great waves to learn direction on the wave. We had a little too much fun because we realized the tide was too far in to get onto the path back to Cox where the car was parked. (5 mile walk) I had been once with my Dad and wondered if it was possible to paddle from Lesterman's to Nox Bay and he called me an idiot. (2 mile paddle) I told my friend that’s what we should do and eventually convinced him to paddle with me to Nox Bay. We got 1/4 of the way it seemed alright the swells got a little bigger but no worries. 1/2 way we started to get a little freaked out. The swells were pretty big now but it was too late to go back. 3/4 the way we started freaking out we were right across from the rocks and we could feel a nice rip taking us out to the ocean but were worried about getting swept in and hammered into the rocks. We were also really tired and almost gave up but we just kept going on a steady angle. The waves were large, on Ralph’s site it says 8 footers that day and we could feel some massive power. It felt to me like busses rolling past us. We finally made it out far enough to paddle in and saw some surfers who called out to us we were too far out. We told them we had paddled from Lestermans and they were really nice about it. They told us to paddle a little farther right in order to be far away enough from the rocks. (Thanks) Now we had the task of catching one of these monsters and my friend went first bailing pretty badly but making it in. I went and caught a nice right taking me back to shore. It was one of the scariest yet most rewarding surfs of my life and I don't think I will ever forget it. I’m thinking about getting a Short board now so I can try duck diving and sharper turning. Thanks to the surfers for being nice to us out back


The Days we went surfing forcast. We were there the 23 and the 24th.


24/07: July 24, 2006
Category: General
Posted by: ralph
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Good morning,still no fog!! ....west winds today....best to go surfing this morning....fairly large northwest swell predicted for today.....please be careful.....


23/07: July 23,2006
Category: General
Posted by: ralph
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Good morning,warm here already.....no fog !!! buoy is showing 8 feet of northwest swell.....don't forget sunscreen today.....

22/07: July 23,2006
Posted by: ralph
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thanks for your patience today.....the shop is tiny and can't hold too many people....a great day here on the coast with 32 degrees of sunshine and good waves......water temp is over 15 degrees!!


22/07: july 22 2006
Category: General
Posted by: ralph
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Good morning....server was down yesterday....sorry.....looks good today buoy is at 6.9 feet on 11 seconds....forecast is for 8-9 feet by tonight.....swell will be shifting to the northwest so don't expect too much.......winds from the northwest...morning will be best....we have a freight damaged 8'6" longboard....an easy fix....$500.00.....brand new.....my loss is your gain.....
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Postby isaluteyou » Tue Sep 05, 2006 8:06 am

good stuff. Bet your arms felt like jello the next day :lol:
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Postby teighto » Tue Sep 05, 2006 3:56 pm

Yeah Nice one :):):)

bet your arms ache !! mine do after a 4-5 hour session !!!!! not that i do 2 miles in that time :D :D :D
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Postby CheeZee » Tue Sep 05, 2006 4:06 pm

Nice one pat' .. dangerous lil' learning curve you gave yourself there but i guess i would have followed ya just for the experience .. and at least now you wont get spooked if you do ever get swept out to sea cause you know you can paddle for like two miles before youd have to sit there and sniff back some tears hoping that a chopper will come find ya :D

all good my man 8) .. damn my arms get tired after driving for two hours :lol:
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Postby el_timmo » Tue Sep 05, 2006 5:21 pm

funny little thing, the paddle out to the Mt Irvine isn't that very far, but the first time I paddled out, I was so tired, I couldn't even paddle for the waves. I was paddling so weak, I was only catching waves at the last minute, and only after a good rest was I able to have a good surf. the next time I went, I was able to paddle out with no problems and had lots of fun from the start. Maybe my arms are getting used to paddling!
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Postby Patrick__69 » Wed Sep 06, 2006 12:10 am

Ya my shoulders were done the next morning and I could not lift my hand over my head. My friend and I were speechless after that and did not talk for a couple hours. :)
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