Got to Lacanau to hear that my old man had had his longboard stolen from the very same beach the previous week even tho it was locked on his car which was a bit of a bummer, waves werent up to much- about 3ft but coming in from the northwest so they werent hitting the sandbars too well (or what is left of the sandbars now). Had my first surf and didnt seem to be too on the ball and my fitness seemed to be way down on what it was back home.
Next day the surf was a complete mess, and after a rubbish surf in the choppy 2ft lumps i found out why my fitness was down as a slight headache developed over the day into a full blown fever with stomach cramps, aching limbs and the whole thing, so i spent the next week and a half in bed (didnt miss much tho the weather was lousy and surf was tiny).
On the last day i felt a bit better so i went to the beach to find the surf was so small that the competition had been called off and the green flags was out on the lifeguard hut (swimmers everywhere). I went in anyway thinking my experience surfing in britain would help in the foot and a half surf, and true enough after a bit of struggling i got back into it and got a couple of nice righthanders dodging between the swimmers and learners.
On getting home i felt almost back to full fitness again so i went down llangennith to say hi and had a decent surf for the first time in a fortnight, ive never been so glad to see lumpy brown 2ft windwaves
gotta get away again some time soon to make up for it but i think ill stay in the UK next time.
