I drive down and its about 7ft closin out, windblown and wild but I can the occasionally heavy breaking peeling wave comin through in the usual sections, no1s out and the sopts usually crowded.
I look out at what seems like endless white water and chop the waves seem to break on top of each other, my head drops as I the reality of the situation kicks in . Do I (A) do the sane thing and drive home with my tail between my legs whinging to myself as I am only used to 3- 4ft waves or
(B) do I try and make it back and maynbe luck out and get the wave of my life,
I choose option (B) and for the next 30 mins get battered in the impact zone , just when I think Im out another set breaks further out and pushes me back into what seems like endless whitewater and current,
I eventually give up totally exhausted and catch a couple of smaller inside chop waves and come in, I can see a couple of the local surf gurus near the surf club having a bit of a laugh at me as I walk to my car, I was kind of dejected, But I say to myself at least I tried and maybe I learned something , at least I got wet.
Do any of u guys have a similar experience.
