When I pop up the board sinks beneath me so I'm knee high in water, I paddle like crazy and watch as the wave just rolls under me.
Have I mysteriously put on 3 stone overnight?
It could be the waves, they weren't that big and didn't seem to have much power behind them even tho they were going quite fast. I watched another guy surfing the same break and he too was paddling like mad but not getting anywhere either, is it me? are we both sh!te? or is it the sea conditions?
I hate days like that, feel very very demotivated
