by Mojo Jojo » Thu Jul 06, 2006 8:50 pm
What you described is exactly the reason why you shouldn't be learning on a shortboard. You can pop up fine on land because you're not doing it on a squirlly shortboard. Getting to your feet is only the beginning of surfing, but one of the major fundamentals. If you start on a larger, more stable board, you would learn to get to your feet faster and then begin to concentrate on actually riding a wave. When you get your fundamentals down on a bigger board, you will become amazed at how responsive a shortboard is. If you keep at it with your shortboard, you will get it eventually, but it will take you much longer.
If pop ups is your problem and you can do them well on land here's what I did to drill the technique. I started surfing late in life and since I had to make up a lot of time, I approached surfing in a fairly analytical manner. Number one is that you have to let go of your ego. Yes people are watching you on the beach, but mostly they don't care. Heck, you're doing what they only dream of. So, what you should do is find a beach with nice rolling white wash away from the crowds. Go out to about waist to chest deep water. Wait for a nice white wash wave to approach and hop on your board. Get on the board early enough so you don't have to adjust your balance at the last minute. Start paddling lightly to get your board moving and then increase your paddle strength as the wave approaches. By the time the wave is about to hit you is when you dig into that wave as with all your might. Arch your back as you paddle. This pulls weight off your nose so you don't pearl and helps you glide better. You should feel yourself surge forward and as you do grab your rails. Arch your back up like a cobra and perform your pop up as fast as you can. The white wash waves will be a bit bumpy, but remember, this is for training. The idea is to increase your wave catching and pop up ability as fast as you can. Doing this in the white wash like this will help because you get back to your spot faster and don't have to sit around 10 minutes waiting for a wave and then worrying about battling other guys in the lineup for position. You will progress naturally as the white wash waves become to easy for you. You will crave larger, more unbroken waves and will paddle out further and further each time looking for them.
Try this drill out for a few weeks. It's time tested. I got it from Taj Burrows book and it was used in my daughters surf camp. I used it even though I thought it would be humiliating. I use it to teach my friends and I still do it when the outside waves are just to big for my tastes.