
But I knew conditions were only gonna get worse (wind turning onshore, and getting stronger) so I wanted to get in there as soon as I could. It was better than expected, and I had quite a lot of fun. BUT... the waves were hard to predict because they were messy and being affected by the backwash.
A fairly large wave (shoulder high, not huge, but big for the day) came in and I paddled hard for it... just as I caught it it got hit by a waist high backwash wave, jacked straight up and then STOPPED

There was me, paddling forward as hard as I could, head over the nose, and suddenly there was no wave beneath me - I didnt go over the falls, because there were no falls to go over, I just plummeted nose first into flat water

I laughed my head off - I bet everyone watching did too...
