for the hardcore surfers

[vbsurfer]

Super Sunday caught another great session at Croatan, the swell had dropped about a foot but it was much cleaner (trend has continued through today). Rode my single again and felt good.

Monday 02-07-05 This day was another story altogether, one of my worst sessions ever. The waves were beautiful, shoulder high and breaking top to bottom. Why did the session suck you ask? Because I decided it was the day to try out a surftech. Granted, the board was a bit too small for me, it was the 6'4" Pancho Sulivan 2.2 thick and appx 18.5-19 wide, with FG7's in the plugs. I honestly tried to enjoy the board but just couldn't. It felt totally alien to me, then gave me my worst wipeout since I tore my MCL. Took a complete header into the sandbar (it was only 2ft deep where I was) and I face planted, glad I didn't break my freakin neck! I have a lovely black eye and sand scrub from my forehead on down.

I threw the Surftech on the beach, and stumbled onto the beach a little dazed. 90 minutes later I traded it in on a 6'6" Flyer, 20" wide, 2 3/4 thick. Andy at Whalebone hooked me up, gave me full credit for the Panch & fins, plus 20% off the tailpad.

That brings us to Today, Tuesday 02-08-05

Glassy waist to chest sets at 1st street, maybe 4-6 guys out at any one time. I was trying to get a feel for the new board (never ridden a flyer before, or ANY CI for that matter), but I had a real good time. Got some fun waves, got used to the feel of the new board, a bit different but fun, I think I'm really gonna like it

[surferdude_scarborough]

yeah i agree with you there phil better waves less people out except there doesnt seem to be a great difference in numbers of people up here to me 20+ out at on sunday and about the same at south bay at the end of december.

[surfboardbaz]

I surfed Cayton yesterday. At least the cold water keeps the sharks away!!!!!!!!! Me and my mate had the place to ourselves. But despite that fact still managed to crash into each other No harm done though and the hot water shower at the surf shop helped to defrost me.

[Kamikaze]

Spare a thought for me and some hardcore Japanese surfing in the North of Japan.

Outside temperature = minus 10
Snow on beach = 3 feet
Beach side facilities = zero

Thank goodness for the new Ripcurl Fireskin. I drive 30 minutes from home to the beach in my wetsuit and then drive 30 minutes back and take it off in the hot shower. Getting changed in the carpark would lead to definite hyperthermia! Im just praying that the police never stop me.

[PapaW]

That does sound pretty hardcore. respect.

[Hapabalapx]

now thats devotion to what you love to do

[Dec]

Glad tp say that here iit is about 35C out of the sun, and 32C in the sea!..shame theres not surf right now

Good luck all you cold surfers!