after going back in the water after the tide came in, coz i dont trust myself surfing onto the peble ridge. i squelched myself back into my alredy wet and freezing cold vest and wetsuit
and ventured in to ocean. coz im still a learner i stick to the white water till it reaches my neck. i see the wave forming, must be half the length of the beach (hoooj) and i paddle like no tommorrow (gone are the days of paddling like an epalectic seagul haveing a fit)and im up on my feet in two (not so graceful) moves and it takes me 
. im on my feet for about 5-6 seconds and fall off with the bigest grin stuck on my mush like i got face cramp!!
thinking this is why i freeze my nuts off every weekend
i just love it
