Am I at fault here?

Questions and answers for those needing help or advice when learning to surf, improving technique or just comparing notes.

Re: Am I at fault here?

Postby HaoleKook » Thu Sep 08, 2022 12:11 am

@Waikikikichan I appreciate you.

And five years later, I want you to determine who was who, in Lebowski's statement.

This just hit me like a truck.

Like you said, they should see me and be able to go around or stop in time, right ?

This too.

Thanks for exposing this, it goes way, way beyond surfing. I know where it comes from and will deeply enjoy re-wiring those neurological pathways. I can't wait to see all the other places this garbage thinking is affecting my life.
HaoleKook
Local Hero
 
Posts: 122
Likes: 0 post
Liked in: 0 post
Joined: Mon Aug 01, 2022 4:50 am
Location: Waikiki

Re: Am I at fault here?

Postby HaoleKook » Thu Nov 03, 2022 6:00 am

This might sound crazy but this whole experience caused me to make some major changes - besides being more careful and aware when surfing I’ve been driving slower, walking slower, generally more relaxed trying to do less and spending more time "in the moment." I’m actually more at peace than I’ve ever been and enjoying life much more. It’s so much better and exactly what I needed in life.

I haven’t seen the guy again, I think he’s an island local but not local surfer. But if I ever see him again I’ll have a chat.

Im embarrassed about how bad I misjudged the speed of the wave and how fast it brings people with it - I most likely had more close drop-ins than I was aware of, but at least now I get it and am so much more aware of who’s around or coming up from behind me.
HaoleKook
Local Hero
 
Posts: 122
Likes: 0 post
Liked in: 0 post
Joined: Mon Aug 01, 2022 4:50 am
Location: Waikiki

Previous

Return to Surfing Lessons For All