Wave

[Dirt]

Hello everyone, I am new to the surfing, I would like to ask you for some advice please. Take a big wave without the surfboard. You have to go to the bottom of the water to pass it or I also risk being carried away by the submarine power

Thank you

[oldmansurfer]

There are a variety of waves some break in shallower water and this affects how deep you can dive to avoid the power of the wave. The closer to the surface of a breaking wave and the closer to where it’s breaking will affect the odds of getting dragged up and over even without a board. However overall it’s much easier to avoid getting pounded without a board. Still if you’re in the wrong place at the wrong time and do the wrong thing you will get dragged over

[waikikikichan]

Not exactly sure what your question is asking, but:

1) are you diving through the wave with the surf board still attached by the ankle leash ?

2) are you surfing a reef break or beach break ?

[stimbley]

probably depends on the wave size and type (reef or sand, open beach/point). It is easier to navigate witout a board but if you aren't a good swimmer that can also be dangerous (if you have a board at least you can sit on it and have a rest)

[oldmansurfer]

I think it’s a good idea to first learn to bodysurf before you learn to surf. Doing so will help with lots of problems people seem to have surfing. Besides making you a better swimmer and building up the muscles you need for surfing it also will help you learn about waves and holding your breath underwater. It’s safer to learn without a board because boards are often the source of injuries. However that said it’s likely that people who have difficulty learning to surf will have even more difficulty learning to bodysurf