Cross stepping on a Walden Mega Magic

[voyager]

Hi, I've been riding a 9' Walden Mega Magic for some years now and wondered if I might be making certain aspects harder for myself to progress as regards cross stepping and nose riding. The board is fantastic in so many ways, but because the bottom is concave I wondered whether this might inhibit my cross stepping/nose riding ability as it's not the most stable board when rocking in a side to side motion. [it's easy to fall off even paddling out!]
My questions are :
Has anyone else had experiences of cross stepping/nose riding on a board like this [concave bottom] compared to say a Takayama In The Pink
[where the concave is just at the front] or a flat-ish, no rocker thing.

I'm thinking of going upto a 9' 6" Walden Mega Magic, [6 more inches!] so I get the superb paddling, reasonable turning potential AND a bit more stability for cross stepping/nose riding.

Thoughts?

[waikikikichan]

Questions:
1) How tall and heavy are you ?
2) What is the fin set up ? Single or 2+1 ?

but because the bottom is concave I wondered whether this might inhibit my cross stepping/nose riding ability as it's not the most stable board when rocking in a side to side motion. [it's easy to fall off even paddling out!]

I'm thinking of going up to a 9' 6" Walden Mega Magic, [6 more inches!] so I get the superb paddling, reasonable turning potential AND a bit more stability for cross stepping/nose riding.

So you're thinking adding 6 more inches will negate/nullify the "rocking side to side motion" ?

[voyager]

Questions:
1) How tall and heavy are you ?
2) What is the fin set up ? Single or 2+1 ?

So you're thinking adding 6 more inches will negate/nullify the "rocking side to side motion" ?

5' 9" tall
210 lb. [I'm usually 185 but I ate too much at Christmas]

I'm not advocating adding 6" as the be all and end all solution per se - I'm throwing it out there to see what others opinions/experiences are/were.
[Particularly with a 'concave' running through most of the board]

I tried a friend's 9' 6" epoxy Walden Mega Magic for 10 minutes 2 years ago and it did seem a tad more stable, not necessarily in the 'rocking side to side' stability but felt a little more 'solid' under foot overall. Hence my curiosity that 9' 6" might provide a bit more help to cross step/noseride.

I mean let's put it this way, the logic being if I tried the same thing going the other way - down to an 8' 6" version, it probably wouldn't help me to progress with cross stepping.

[waikikikichan]

And what is the current fin set up on your Walden ?

If it’s a 2+1, I’d recommend removing the side bites and installing a 9 to 9.5 nuuhiwa Single fin ( sort of looks like a Boeing 747 tail fin )

[voyager]

It has

7.5" centre fin

4" side bites. x 2

[voyager]

BTW I could not find a Nuuhiwa 9-9.5" fin anywhere, any idea where I can get one?

[waikikikichan]

You can try search for Island Fin Designs
“IFN” model

Or Kanoa Dahlin fins “Miss Lucy” model.

[voyager]

To Waikikikichan - thanks for the fin info. So for example if I got a 9' 6" Miss Lucy fin, what would this give me, if I exchanged it for the 2-1 set up I currently have?

cheers

[waikikikichan]

You don't have to even get the exact Miss Lucy, just even a plastic 9'0" single fin will make a difference on how the board turns, turns in and holds it's line on the face of the wave ( and how you in turn have to ride it ). FCS makes this FCS2 connection tool-less fin. Their 10" fin will cost about $30 usd. ( they don't make a 9.5 )

It should help with the rocking side to side motion as the rails won't catch as much since you'll be taking off the side "bites" ( hence the name ). Should be more stable. ( but there again, it's not the arrow but the Indian that more so determines that )

[voyager]

To Waikikikichan : OK, thanks for the fin info, so something I could try there then.
Also - generally speaking I don't see many 'classic' riders [noseriding/cross stepping] using Waldens. Is a board like the Walden frowned upon a bit by classic long boarders?
Possibly because of the unusually thick body? The Concave? Maybe just don't like epoxy?
What is your opinion on this?

BTW The reason why I have stuck with the Walden mainly is because in the UK, we often have very messy inconsistent surf, and don't have many point breaks, it is the best paddling board I've ever used and can get out the back fast, and on a 5' onshore Saunton day, you need every bit of help you can get. I couldn't even get out the back on my 9' 3" In The Pink or 10'.01" Blacker, unless it's super clean 2' , long wave period/good wind etc etc.
But I imagine the 9' 3" In The Pink or Blacker being a great board on a nice 3' Malibu point break, and getting in the rhythm of relaxed paddle out on the shoulder/get in the line up/catch the wave / repeat cycle.
So - easy to get the wrong board for the wrong break?

[waikikikichan]

generally speaking I don't see many 'classic' riders [noseriding/cross stepping] using Waldens. Is a board like the Walden frowned upon a bit by classic long boarders?
Possibly because of the unusually thick body? The Concave? Maybe just don't like epoxy?
What is your opinion on this?

We can talk about the pros/cons about molded-epoxy, traditional glassing using EPS/Epoxy and traditional PU/Poly construction for days. Some "old timers" frown upon Molded-Epoxy as being "pop outs". I always ask them "when was the last time you used a wooden tennis racket ?"
But to cut your question short about if Walden's can nose ride or not:

"Though he competed some as a teenager, he returned to contest surfing at the age of 30 and has been a regular on the winner's podium ever since. In fact, Walden still holds the record for the longest noseride in competition history with an epic 25.5-second ride."

[waikikikichan]

BTW The reason why I have stuck with the Walden mainly is because in the UK, we often have very messy inconsistent surf, and don't have many point breaks, it is the best paddling board I've ever used and can get out the back fast, and on a 5' onshore Saunton day, you need every bit of help you can get. I couldn't even get out the back on my 9' 3" In The Pink or 10'.01" Blacker, unless it's super clean 2' , long wave period/good wind etc etc.
But I imagine the 9' 3" In The Pink or Blacker being a great board on a nice 3' Malibu point break,

So the Walden works for you in the conditions you surf at at your surf break. What is the point of getting a heavy volan glassed purpose built noserider if you can get out to the break ? The In-the-Pink is touted as a great noserider, but for me, I hate it with a passion. Don't believe the hype, make up your own opinion.

[waikikikichan]

I mean let's put it this way, the logic being if I tried the same thing going the other way - down to an 8' 6" version, it probably wouldn't help me to progress with cross stepping.

Okay, let's follow that "logic/theory" the other way also. If you say going down to a 8'6" will not be beneficial, then going up to a 11 footer should be more stable and easier to nose ride. (?)
If you already have a hard time cross stepping and admitted that you "lurch" on your steps, then going longer will make it even harder to reach the nose. My "noserider" is 9'1", trying to walk to the nose on a 10.0" takes forever. On my 9'1", I make 2 cross step and one 1/2 kick step. for a 10, it feels like it takes way more like you need to take 3 or 4 steps.
Your Mega Magic is designed to ride like a board 12-18 inches longer. So your 9'0" Mega has the volume of a 10' or 10'6" normal board. But what you are not taking into account by just looking at length is the rail. Mega Magics are disproportionately wide and thick. Before you take your first step, you need to SET your rail and LOCK the tail down. If you can't set your rail, then the rail will disengage and fall away from the face of the wave ( slide out - rock side to side -etc. ) Of course, we can't blame it or count on just the rail, you have to take the whole board into consideration and also how you, the rider, deals with the rail.

DTC pointed this out to you 5 years ago, http://alohaki.jugem.jp/?eid=488 . Did you ever get the chance to read it ? The problem is not the length of the board, the construction of the board, the weight of the board, ( or even the fin(s) under the board ). It's how you walk on the board that determines if it will rock side to side.